I live in the Midlands (Rugby) and have owned a "Dixie" for 4 years now.
It stands in a large pot 30" dia. x 36" high and has produced 10-12
beautiful even fronds each year, except this year they have all grown
out of a very tight area in the centre of the trunk and so the central
core is very narrow. Indeed it all seems tightly packed and the fronds
have not unfurled as much as previous years. I didn't do anything
differently over the last winter. Apart from the first winter when I
cut the old fronds off before wrapping the trunk in an insulating
jacket and stuffing straw down the core, the last 2 winters I left the
old fronds and cut them off in the spring. So my concern is that the
new growth seems to be shooting from a narrowing space. Am I right to
be concerned and if so what should I do about it. ? Any advice
appreciated


--
robb2401

robb2401 wrote:
> I live in the Midlands (Rugby) and have owned a "Dixie" for 4 years now.
> It stands in a large pot 30" dia. x 36" high and has produced 10-12
> beautiful even fronds each year, except this year they have all grown
> out of a very tight area in the centre of the trunk and so the central
> core is very narrow. Indeed it all seems tightly packed and the fronds
> have not unfurled as much as previous years. I didn't do anything
> differently over the last winter. Apart from the first winter when I
> cut the old fronds off before wrapping the trunk in an insulating
> jacket and stuffing straw down the core, the last 2 winters I left the
> old fronds and cut them off in the spring. So my concern is that the
> new growth seems to be shooting from a narrowing space. Am I right to
> be concerned and if so what should I do about it. ? Any advice
> appreciated

This happens mine sometimes. I THINK it is caused by parts of the
crown dying
through frost or drought damage. All new growth comes from the top of
the "trunk"
and if it dries out ever, it will suffer. I have had mine dry out in
dry spring weather.
If that happens really badly, I think it will kill the plant. I have
been lucky in that mine have recovered but just as you described i.e.
you get a small circle of tiny fronds. This happend me last year to
some and to one this year. The ones that were hit last year have
recovered a bit but the fronds are still smaller than before the
damage. When it happened last year, it was during a long dry spell
that lasted about 2 months (in Dublin; bit unusual) accompanied by
fairly cold bright days. I think they simply dried out.
This spring has also been very dry but I watered them regularly and
only 1 was hit (I have 7 in total from spores about 8 years ago). I
got completely tired repotting them every year so this year, I planted
5 of them in a bed. That MIGHT make them more drought tolerant (might
not as the top of the trunk is where they need watering).

Des


>
>
> --
> robb2401

dazzhiggins [at] hotmail.com wrote:
> robb2401 wrote:
> > I live in the Midlands (Rugby) and have owned a "Dixie" for 4 years now.
> > It stands in a large pot 30" dia. x 36" high and has produced 10-12
> > beautiful even fronds each year, except this year they have all grown
> > out of a very tight area in the centre of the trunk and so the central
> > core is very narrow. Indeed it all seems tightly packed and the fronds
> > have not unfurled as much as previous years. I didn't do anything
> > differently over the last winter. Apart from the first winter when I
> > cut the old fronds off before wrapping the trunk in an insulating
> > jacket and stuffing straw down the core, the last 2 winters I left the
> > old fronds and cut them off in the spring. So my concern is that the
> > new growth seems to be shooting from a narrowing space. Am I right to
> > be concerned and if so what should I do about it. ? Any advice
> > appreciated
>
> This happens mine sometimes. I THINK it is caused by parts of the
> crown dying
> through frost or drought damage. All new growth comes from the top of
> the "trunk"
> and if it dries out ever, it will suffer. I have had mine dry out in
> dry spring weather.
> If that happens really badly, I think it will kill the plant. I have
> been lucky in that mine have recovered but just as you described i.e.
> you get a small circle of tiny fronds. This happend me last year to
> some and to one this year. The ones that were hit last year have
> recovered a bit but the fronds are still smaller than before the
> damage. When it happened last year, it was during a long dry spell
> that lasted about 2 months (in Dublin; bit unusual) accompanied by
> fairly cold bright days. I think they simply dried out.
> This spring has also been very dry but I watered them regularly and
> only 1 was hit (I have 7 in total from spores about 8 years ago). I
> got completely tired repotting them every year so this year, I planted
> 5 of them in a bed. That MIGHT make them more drought tolerant (might
> not as the top of the trunk is where they need watering).
>
> Des
>
>
> >
> >
> > --
> > robb2401

My Dicksonia Antarctica is only a littl'n but has produced fronds
normally except for this year there are small fronds growing from the
base at ground level instead from the centre.

I only wrapped it in Fleece , could the cental stem have been damaged
by the frosts and thus be growing

Gardening_Convert wrote:
> dazzhiggins [at] hotmail.com wrote:
> > robb2401 wrote:
> > > I live in the Midlands (Rugby) and have owned a "Dixie" for 4 years now.
> > > It stands in a large pot 30" dia. x 36" high and has produced 10-12
> > > beautiful even fronds each year, except this year they have all grown
> > > out of a very tight area in the centre of the trunk and so the central
> > > core is very narrow. Indeed it all seems tightly packed and the fronds
> > > have not unfurled as much as previous years. I didn't do anything
> > > differently over the last winter. Apart from the first winter when I
> > > cut the old fronds off before wrapping the trunk in an insulating
> > > jacket and stuffing straw down the core, the last 2 winters I left the
> > > old fronds and cut them off in the spring. So my concern is that the
> > > new growth seems to be shooting from a narrowing space. Am I right to
> > > be concerned and if so what should I do about it. ? Any advice
> > > appreciated
> >
> > This happens mine sometimes. I THINK it is caused by parts of the
> > crown dying
> > through frost or drought damage. All new growth comes from the top of
> > the "trunk"
> > and if it dries out ever, it will suffer. I have had mine dry out in
> > dry spring weather.
> > If that happens really badly, I think it will kill the plant. I have
> > been lucky in that mine have recovered but just as you described i.e.
> > you get a small circle of tiny fronds. This happend me last year to
> > some and to one this year. The ones that were hit last year have
> > recovered a bit but the fronds are still smaller than before the
> > damage. When it happened last year, it was during a long dry spell
> > that lasted about 2 months (in Dublin; bit unusual) accompanied by
> > fairly cold bright days. I think they simply dried out.
> > This spring has also been very dry but I watered them regularly and
> > only 1 was hit (I have 7 in total from spores about 8 years ago). I
> > got completely tired repotting them every year so this year, I planted
> > 5 of them in a bed. That MIGHT make them more drought tolerant (might
> > not as the top of the trunk is where they need watering).
> >
> > Des
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > robb2401
>
> My Dicksonia Antarctica is only a littl'n but has produced fronds
> normally except for this year there are small fronds growing from the
> base at ground level instead from the centre.
>
> I only wrapped it in Fleece , could the cental stem have been damaged
> by the frosts and thus be growing

As I said above, I don't know. It might be lack of water more than
cold but I simply do not know. I have one that resprouted from ths
side with very small fronds.

Hmmm. Another lengthy explanation on the way. It's a subject
surrounded in myth, propagated by media buffoons resulting in the
innocent buyer forking out big investments that fritter away.

The growth of Dicksonias and most of the cool tolerant tree ferns is
largely dependent upon the growing conditions of the previous year. If
they have been good with ample moisture and sufficient nutrients, the
numbers of fronds produced during the following spring will increase as
will the size of those fronds to a degree. Once Dicksonia antarctica
has grown large enough to form a trunk, the normal frond length is 2 -
2.5m with an annual increase in the numbers of fronds during the first
'flush'. If after a couple of years' establishment, a trunked specimen
produces fronds that are much shorter than this and the numbers
produced remain static or decrease, you can assume that growing
conditions are less than satisfactory for the plant. A well
established fern should be producing around 20 or more fronds in its
first flush, followed by more appearing sporadically throughout the
summer.

Dicksonia antarctica develops as a central live core or caudex, with a
single growing point at the top and a very large mat of roots at the
bottom. The bulk of the 'trunk' consists old leaf bases, which for
several years act as stores for manufactured plant starches. These are
surrounded by a dense network of roots which gradually grow downwards
towards the soil. It can take many years for roots formed just below
the canopy of a 2m. trunked Dicksonia to reach the soil and moist
conditions must be maintained throughout that time. This means that it
is vital for the trunk to remain moist in all but the coldest of
weather. Moisture travels into the fern by direct absorbtion into the
roots at and below soil level and by capillary action up the trunk to
roots not yet growing in the soil. Allowing the trunk to dry out for
any length of time, irrespective of the amount of soil moisture means
that the capillary action stops and roots further up the trunk will
stop growing or even die.

Like all plants, Dicksonias require ample nutrients if they are to grow
successfully. If the soil is poor or the roots so compacted that that
they cannot expand to draw minerals from fresh ground, the plant starts
to decline. There has been a huge amount of rubbish published by
so-called TV 'experts' (better described as ex-spurts) claiming that
tree ferns can be grown in anything and don't need to establish a good
root system. This is utter nonsense. They naturally develop extensive
root mats, which draw up large quantities of moisture and nutrients
from the soil. If conditions prevail that prevent this happening, they
decline and die. Being woodland plants that are astonishingly tolerant
of sun, they should nevertheless be grown in dappled shade for best
results. The light shade also reduces the amount of rapid drying to
the trunk on hot days.

Which brings us to tree ferns growing in pots. They can be
successfully grown in very large containers for many years. However,
bearing in mind the information given above, extra special care must be
afforded to ensure that the plants have sufficient moisture and
nutrients at all times. This means applying dilute liquid fertiliser
regularly throughout spring, summer and early autumn as well as
ensuring that neither the compost in the container nor the trunk
becomes dry at any time. You should be able to water a containerised
tree fern every day without the compost becoming waterlogged and
sodden. Therefore it must provide perfect drainage. The container
should also be large enough to enable sufficient root mass to develop.
A 2 - 3m. trunked fern will need at least a 1m. diameter container
that is 90cms. deep. A good compost consists of 2 parts John Innes no
3 to one part multi-purpose (soil-less) compost to which is added 15%
by volume coarse sand, horticultural grit or perlite. To put it in
slightly easier terms, 2 buckets of JI and one bucket of multi plus
half a bucket of sand, grit or perlite. I should add that in spite of
the move towards eco-friendliness, a peat-based multi is infinitely
superior for these purposes.

So, what about the question of the ever-decreasing crown appearing to
'choke' the expansion of new fronds? Well, this is caused by the
shrinking of the growing point because growing conditions have been
poor. It is most often seen in potted tree ferns and if allowed to
continue the fern is likely to die. To reverse the shrinkage of the
growing point and constriction of the crown, you simply need to improve
the growing conditions. In the first instance this means making sure
that the trunk is sprayed with water every day, that the crown is also
soaked and if sufficient moisture doesn't get down into the container,
that should be watered daily in hot weather as well. Liquid feeds are
the easiest methods of topping up nutrients when they are lacking.
>From early spring to mid summer, a high nitrogen feed such as Chempak
no2 is good if applied at half strength every week. Later in the year
a more balance feed should be applied. This should be applied to the
crown, trunk and root ball. A 'choked' fern will need its compost
replenishing. A larger container is needed and some of the old compost
should be carefully teased away from the root ball before repotting.
If it can be moved to a position in light shade so much the better.
This will prevent hot sun causing undue stress and the local humidity,
which these plants relish will be much higher.

DavePoole Torquay wrote:
> Hmmm. Another lengthy explanation on the way. It's a subject
> surrounded in myth, propagated by media buffoons resulting in the
> innocent buyer forking out big investments that fritter away.
>
> The growth of Dicksonias and most of the cool tolerant tree ferns is
> largely dependent upon the growing conditions of the previous year. If
> they have been good with ample moisture and sufficient nutrients, the
> numbers of fronds produced during the following spring will increase as
> will the size of those fronds to a degree. Once Dicksonia antarctica
> has grown large enough to form a trunk, the normal frond length is 2 -
> 2.5m with an annual increase in the numbers of fronds during the first
> 'flush'. If after a couple of years' establishment, a trunked specimen
> produces fronds that are much shorter than this and the numbers
> produced remain static or decrease, you can assume that growing
> conditions are less than satisfactory for the plant. A well
> established fern should be producing around 20 or more fronds in its
> first flush, followed by more appearing sporadically throughout the
> summer.
>
SNIP
This is so useful I am bookmarking it.
That is the best advice I have seen on tree ferns; this explains a few
things for me.
Thanks Dave!!!!!!