I have what I'm pretty sure is an Ulmus Parvifolia (it's definitely an
Ulmus) which I bought at a DIY store here in England about 5 years ago.
It has done well throughout that period, even though I know almost
nothing about Bonsai. I've repotted it about three times. This summer
(I've kept it indoors almost all the time - it doesn't seem to like
being outside) the dear old thing has lost most of its leaves about 3
times (since May). They quickly regrow again and it's looking very
healthy just now, but I'm wondering if I'm doing anything wrong. I mist
it virtually every day and water it when it seems to need some watering
- this regime hasn't changed much since I bought it.

I last repotted it in early July - seemed OK except for some small
patches of what seemed to be light blue mould which I removed.

I'd be grateful for any ideas about what I should do, if anything.

Cheers


Jerry

JerryC wrote:
> I have what I'm pretty sure is an Ulmus Parvifolia (it's definitely an
> Ulmus) which I bought at a DIY store here in England about 5 years ago.
> It has done well throughout that period, even though I know almost
> nothing about Bonsai. I've repotted it about three times. This summer
> (I've kept it indoors almost all the time - it doesn't seem to like
> being outside) the dear old thing has lost most of its leaves about 3
> times (since May). They quickly regrow again and it's looking very
> healthy just now, but I'm wondering if I'm doing anything wrong. I mist
> it virtually every day and water it when it seems to need some watering
> - this regime hasn't changed much since I bought it.
>
> I last repotted it in early July - seemed OK except for some small
> patches of what seemed to be light blue mould which I removed.
>
> I'd be grateful for any ideas about what I should do, if anything.
>
> Cheers

Misting AND water might be a bit much, depending on how much
"mist" you use. Water the tree ONLY when the soil feels dry.

They're tough trees, but 3X since May is a bit much and will
wear it down eventually.

Do the leaves turn black and crinkly first? There is a
disease (not sure whether it is bacterial or fungal) that
often hits these trees. But wet leaves seem to lead to it.

Jim Lewis - jklewis [at] nettally.com - Tallahassee, FL - Nature
encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson

************************************************************ ********************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++
************************************************************ ********************
>>-->> The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ <<--<<
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail BONSAI-REQUEST [at] HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM +++++

Jim Lewis wrote:
>
> JerryC wrote:
> > I have what I'm pretty sure is an Ulmus Parvifolia (it's definitely an
> > Ulmus) which I bought at a DIY store here in England about 5 years ago.
> > It has done well throughout that period, even though I know almost
> > nothing about Bonsai. I've repotted it about three times. This summer
> > (I've kept it indoors almost all the time - it doesn't seem to like
> > being outside) the dear old thing has lost most of its leaves about 3
> > times (since May). They quickly regrow again and it's looking very
> > healthy just now, but I'm wondering if I'm doing anything wrong. I mist
> > it virtually every day and water it when it seems to need some watering
> > - this regime hasn't changed much since I bought it.
> >
> > I last repotted it in early July - seemed OK except for some small
> > patches of what seemed to be light blue mould which I removed.
> >
> > I'd be grateful for any ideas about what I should do, if anything.

Ulmus does not like to be sprayed it will develope blackspot fungus. I
think you might have interpreted leaf schorch as a sign that your ulmus
does not like it outside. If you place a tree outdoors that have been
inside it will loose leaves and they might start to look ugly. On the
other hand. When your tree is loosing leaves is a perfect time to
place it outdoors. Take it slow and little by little place it in full
sun.
Your tree will be much better off out doors. The new leaves will develope
a wax layer and can take the full sun.

Your tree will also be better off with a dormant period at a lower temperature,
around 0-15°C during the winter.

Henrik Gistvall, Uppsala, Sweden

************************************************************ ********************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++
************************************************************ ********************
>>-->> The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ <<--<<
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail BONSAI-REQUEST [at] HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM +++++

Very many thanks for your help with this Henrik and Jim - I'm very
grateful! Will try your suggestions and hope that 'Bob' does a little
better.

Jerry

JerryC wrote:
> Very many thanks for your help with this Henrik and Jim - I'm very
> grateful! Will try your suggestions and hope that 'Bob' does a little
> better.
>

An elm named "Bob"? Hmmm. :-)

************************************************************ ********************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++
************************************************************ ********************
>>-->> The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ <<--<<
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail BONSAI-REQUEST [at] HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM +++++

Wonder if "Bob's" last name is "Treeling" :-)

Gordon in Greensboro, NC

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Lewis" <jklewis [at] NETTALLY.COM>
To: <BONSAI [at] HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2005 8:38 AM
Subject: Re: [IBC] Ulmus Parvifolia losing leaves in ever more frequent
cycles


> JerryC wrote:
>> Very many thanks for your help with this Henrik and Jim - I'm very
>> grateful! Will try your suggestions and hope that 'Bob' does a little
>> better.
>>
>
> An elm named "Bob"? Hmmm. :-)
>
> ************************************************************ ********************
> ++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++
> ************************************************************ ********************
>>>-->> The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ <<--<<
> +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail BONSAI-REQUEST [at] HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM +++++

************************************************************ ********************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++
************************************************************ ********************
>>-->> The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ <<--<<
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail BONSAI-REQUEST [at] HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM +++++

No, more likely it's Parvifolia. ;-)

Alan Walker
http://bonsai-bci.com http://LCBSBonsai.org


-----Original Message-----
From: Gordon Saunders
Wonder if "Bob's" last name is "Treeling" :-)
Gordon in Greensboro, NC

----- Original Message -----
JerryC wrote:
Very many thanks for your help with this Henrik and Jim - I'm
very grateful! Will try your suggestions and hope that 'Bob'
does a little better.

From: "Jim Lewis" jklewis [at] NETTALLY.COM
An elm named "Bob"? Hmmm. :-)

************************************************************ ********************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++
************************************************************ ********************
>>-->> The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ <<--<<
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail BONSAI-REQUEST [at] HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM +++++

Jerry, your elm will do much better off outdoors. Do it gradually, from
indoors to a semi-shaded area to full sun.
Do not mist it anymore. Water drops on top of the leaves as a result of
misting will act like magnifiers in the middle of the day when the sun
is up above, and this little megnifiers will cause burns on the surface
of the leaves. After a while the foliage will be full of brown and black
"burned off" spots.
If you still want to mist the tree do it early in the morning only.
That will allow enough for the water to evaporate before the sun is
higher up on the sky and fries the leaves. Do not mist in the evening
as the humidity will remain on the leaves and branches all night, and
you will just calling for fungus problems.
Another common reason for elms loosing the leaves is root fungus. You
mentioned seeing some mold when re-poting, so i think we are right on
the money. Get some good fungicide from your garden center asap. Ortho
has very good ones. Dilute it as per the instructions on the bottle,
and mist and water thoroughly your tree with it. Make sure the soil is
all soaked with the solution. Dont do it right before of after watering
your tree (the water in the soil from a recent watering will dilute the
fungicide even more and make it less effective, and watering the tree
right after applying the fungicide will just wash it off). Repeat after
a week. That should get rid of the problem.
Hope this may help your elm.
Gene


JerryC Wrote:
> Very many thanks for your help with this Henrik and Jim - I'm very
> grateful! Will try your suggestions and hope that 'Bob' does a little
> better.
>
> Jerry


--
Gene DC

someone said:

>Do not mist it anymore. Water drops on top of the leaves as a result of
misting will act like magnifiers in the middle of the day when the sun
is up above, and this little megnifiers will cause burns on the surface

>of the leaves.

I say:

Let's not start this again. Anyone who wants to worry about
water-droplet-lenses should check our archives or read the back-issue
of British "Bonsai" which summarizes the topic. This is an "old sensei
tale".

Nina.

Weather here in MD has been hot and dry since late June.

Gene DC wrote:
> Jerry, your elm will do much better off outdoors. Do it gradually, from
> indoors to a semi-shaded area to full sun.

Many thanks! I'll get some fungicide and try that as well.

Bob (named after Bob the Builder, you see...) hasn't been misted all
week and appears to be perfectly happy.

The only thing about putting him, er, it outside is that we quite like
having it, er him, around but I guess it is a bit unnatural.

Cheers


Jerry

JerryC wrote:
> Gene DC wrote:
>
>>Jerry, your elm will do much better off outdoors. Do it gradually, from
>>indoors to a semi-shaded area to full sun.
>
>
> Many thanks! I'll get some fungicide and try that as well.
>

Don't bother with the fungicide. Remove the blacvk leaves,
destroy them, and let new ones sprout. Fungicide seldome
"cures."

Jim Lewis - jklewis [at] nettally.com - Tallahassee, FL - Nature
encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson

************************************************************ ********************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++
************************************************************ ********************
>>-->> The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ <<--<<
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail BONSAI-REQUEST [at] HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM +++++