Greetings,

I've seen on BonsiteSite.com that a recommended standard for creating your
own soil is:

1 Part Loam
2 Parts Sphagnum Peat Moss
2 Parts Grantie Grit.

I've checked with the local nursery and though they have loam, they find
that in my area (North of Toronto, Canada) it's very clay-heavy. They
recommend Triple Mix in place of the Loam.

With this in mind, I was planning on making My mixture:

1 Part Triple Mix
1 Part Sphagnum Peat Moss
1 Part Granite Grit

Does this sound like a good bet, or should I increase the Peat Moss and
Granite Grit to 2 parts?

I realize this is all a very subjective art, but I just wanted to get some
feedback.

Thanks in advance,

Alexander Fraser
(Zone 4a)

AlexanderRex wrote:
> Greetings,
>
> I've seen on BonsiteSite.com that a recommended standard for creating your
> own soil is:
>
> 1 Part Loam
> 2 Parts Sphagnum Peat Moss
> 2 Parts Grantie Grit.
>
> I've checked with the local nursery and though they have loam, they find
> that in my area (North of Toronto, Canada) it's very clay-heavy. They
> recommend Triple Mix in place of the Loam.
>
> With this in mind, I was planning on making My mixture:
>
> 1 Part Triple Mix
> 1 Part Sphagnum Peat Moss
> 1 Part Granite Grit
>
> Does this sound like a good bet, or should I increase the Peat Moss and
> Granite Grit to 2 parts?
>
> I realize this is all a very subjective art, but I just wanted to get some
> feedback.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Alexander Fraser
> (Zone 4a)
>

There are articles on soil at www.internetbonsaiclub.org in
its Knowledge Base.

However, soil recipes boil down to:

1. What you grow (species, sizes, styles -- pot shapes,
etc.), and
2. How you grow it (water, your climate, styles -- again,
forest, cascade, etc. take different kinds).

Anyone who uses ONE soil is risking a lot. But you can
start with a basic mix that drains freely and modify it
accordingly -- sometimes extensively.

The materials used are of less importance than its ability
to drain well.

Jim Lewis - jklewis [at] nettally.com - Tallahassee, FL - Nature
encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson

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Alexander,

The soil mix you reference sounds like a recipe for root rot. A mix that is
3/5 loam and peat moss will not be free draining, and a free draining mix is
what you want. The granite grit is the only suitable ingredient you
mention.

You could use granite grit 50/50 with screened bark mulch, or you could add
lava rock to the mix, or turface, or haydite or something similar. Above
all the mix must be free draining.

There have been a number of discussions on this list regarding soil mix
composition; you should be able to find them in the archives.

Regards,
Roger Snipes
Spokane, WA. Zone 5-ish

----- Original Message -----
From: "AlexanderRex" <AlexanderRex [at] SPAMMENOTHOTMAIL.COM>
>
> I've seen on BonsiteSite.com that a recommended standard for creating your
> own soil is:
>
> 1 Part Loam
> 2 Parts Sphagnum Peat Moss
> 2 Parts Grantie Grit.
>

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Roger,

So granite grit 50/50 with bark mulch will do it? Those seem to be the
only ingredients I can get hold of in My area.

Thanks again,

Alexander



Roger Snipes wrote:
> Alexander,
>
> The soil mix you reference sounds like a recipe for root rot. A mix that is
> 3/5 loam and peat moss will not be free draining, and a free draining mix is
> what you want. The granite grit is the only suitable ingredient you
> mention.
>
> You could use granite grit 50/50 with screened bark mulch, or you could add
> lava rock to the mix, or turface, or haydite or something similar. Above
> all the mix must be free draining.
>
> There have been a number of discussions on this list regarding soil mix
> composition; you should be able to find them in the archives.
>
> Regards,
> Roger Snipes
> Spokane, WA. Zone 5-ish
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "AlexanderRex" <AlexanderRex [at] SPAMMENOTHOTMAIL.COM>
> >
> > I've seen on BonsiteSite.com that a recommended standard for creating your
> > own soil is:
> >
> > 1 Part Loam
> > 2 Parts Sphagnum Peat Moss
> > 2 Parts Grantie Grit.
> >
>
> ************************************************************ ********************
> ++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++
> ************************************************************ ********************
> >>-->> The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ <<--<<
> +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail BONSAI-REQUEST [at] HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM +++++

Hello Alexander,

For your bark, don't forget to dry it under the sun before screen it, i
twill make the task lot easier.

Good Luck,

Michel

-----Message d'origine-----
De : Internet Bonsai Club [mailto:BONSAI [at] HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM] De la part de
AlexanderRex
Envoyé : 30 septembre 2005 09:48
À : BONSAI [at] HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM
Objet : Re: [IBC] Creating my own soil

Roger,

So granite grit 50/50 with bark mulch will do it? Those seem to be the
only ingredients I can get hold of in My area.

Thanks again,

Alexander



Roger Snipes wrote:
> Alexander,
>
> The soil mix you reference sounds like a recipe for root rot. A mix that
is
> 3/5 loam and peat moss will not be free draining, and a free draining mix
is
> what you want. The granite grit is the only suitable ingredient you
> mention.
>
> You could use granite grit 50/50 with screened bark mulch, or you could
add
> lava rock to the mix, or turface, or haydite or something similar. Above
> all the mix must be free draining.
>
> There have been a number of discussions on this list regarding soil mix
> composition; you should be able to find them in the archives.
>
> Regards,
> Roger Snipes
> Spokane, WA. Zone 5-ish
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "AlexanderRex" <AlexanderRex [at] SPAMMENOTHOTMAIL.COM>
> >
> > I've seen on BonsiteSite.com that a recommended standard for creating
your
> > own soil is:
> >
> > 1 Part Loam
> > 2 Parts Sphagnum Peat Moss
> > 2 Parts Grantie Grit.
> >
>
>
************************************************************ ****************
****
> ++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++
>
************************************************************ ****************
****
> >>-->> The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ <<--<<
> +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail BONSAI-REQUEST [at] HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM +++++

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****
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****
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Jim Lewis wrote:
>

> Anyone who uses ONE soil is risking a lot. But you can
> start with a basic mix that drains freely and modify it
> accordingly -- sometimes extensively.

How so? I use one mix for almost all my trees. Equal parts of akadama,
granit grit and pumice. Sometimes I add a little fresh sphagnum moss. If
there is one thing I change it is the particle size. For my really small
mame trees I use pure akadama 1-3 mm size but that is almost the only exception.

Henrik Gistvall, Uppsala, Sweden

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Jim make a good point.

While Warren Hill looked over the bonsai at the US National Bonsai Collection, he used an extensive number of soil mixes.

While you do not have to get excessive in the number of soil mixtures, it is important to recognize how subtle changes in the mix can affect various trees.

Cordially,

Michael Persiano
members.aol.com/iasnob
____________________________________
Jim writes:

<However, soil recipes boil down to:

1. What you grow (species, sizes, styles -- pot shapes, etc.), and
2. How you grow it (water, your climate, styles -- again, forest, cascade, etc. take different kinds).

Anyone who uses ONE soil is risking a lot. But you can start with a basic mix that drains freely and modify it accordingly -- sometimes extensively.

The materials used are of less importance than its ability to drain well.

Jim Lewis - jklewis [at] nettally.com - Tallahassee, FL - Nature encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson>

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************************************************************ ********************
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AlexanderRex wrote:
> Roger,
>
> So granite grit 50/50 with bark mulch will do it? Those seem to be the
> only ingredients I can get hold of in My area.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Alexander


Awww. I bet not. See my response to the question of
Turface in Quebec.

Jim Lewis - jklewis [at] nettally.com - Tallahassee, FL - Only
where people have learned to appreciate and cherish the
landscape and its living cover will they treat it with the
care and respect it should have - Paul Bigelow Sears.

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Henrik Gistvall wrote:
> Jim Lewis wrote:
>
>
>>Anyone who uses ONE soil is risking a lot. But you can
>>start with a basic mix that drains freely and modify it
>>accordingly -- sometimes extensively.
>
>
> How so? I use one mix for almost all my trees. Equal parts of akadama,
> granit grit and pumice. Sometimes I add a little fresh sphagnum moss. If
> there is one thing I change it is the particle size. For my really small
> mame trees I use pure akadama 1-3 mm size but that is almost the only exception.
>
> Henrik Gistvall, Uppsala, Sweden
>

:-)

Well, I'll try to ignore all the qualifiers in your sentence
-- "*almost* all my trees" and "*sometimes* I add . . ." and
"*change* the particle size . . ." and "for my really small
.. . ." :-) -- and just say that I'll stand by my statement
that one is "risking a lot . . ." ESPECIALLY one who is
relatively new to the sport as the original poster seemed to be.

Jim Lewis - jklewis [at] nettally.com - Tallahassee, FL - Only
where people have learned to appreciate and cherish the
landscape and its living cover will they treat it with the
care and respect it should have - Paul Bigelow Sears.

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++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++
************************************************************ ********************
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+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail BONSAI-REQUEST [at] HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM +++++

Alexander,

If that is all you can get, it will work. The only disadvantage to using
granite grit exclusively is that your pots will weigh a bit more than if you
use some lava rock or turface. There is also the issue of the color of the
granite grit, but that is an esthetic concern and doesn't affect the
horticultural performance.

Roger

----- Original Message -----
From: "AlexanderRex" <AlexanderRex [at] HOTMAIL.COM>
>
> So granite grit 50/50 with bark mulch will do it? Those seem to be the
> only ingredients I can get hold of in My area.

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++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++
************************************************************ ********************
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Jim Lewis wrote:
>
>
> Well, I'll try to ignore all the qualifiers in your sentence
> -- "*almost* all my trees" and "*sometimes* I add . . ." and
> "*change* the particle size . . ." and "for my really small
> . . ." :-) -- and just say that I'll stand by my statement
> that one is "risking a lot . . ." ESPECIALLY one who is
> relatively new to the sport as the original poster seemed to be.
>
So true ;-). But I meet people fiddeling with twenty different mixes,
thats ok if soil mixes is your main concern in life. One for conifers,
one for pines, one for flowering tree, for decidouos, shohin, indoor you
name it. Others make up as the go along and forget what they used for
which tree and can´t draw any clues if the soil mix was good or not. My
suggestion is to use one basic soil as a beginner to learn how it
handles (good thing to start of with few species at almost the same size
as, well but that will probably not happen). Increase or decrease
particle size for large vs small trees and if you feel like it throw in
some fresh sphagnum moss ;-).

Henrik Gistvall, Uppsala, Sweden

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On Sep 30, 2005, at 3:24 PM, Roger Snipes wrote:

> Alexander,
>
> If that is all you can get, it will work. The only disadvantage to
> using granite grit exclusively is that your pots will weigh a bit
> more than if you use some lava rock or turface. There is also the
> issue of the color of the granite grit, but that is an esthetic
> concern and doesn't affect the horticultural performance.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "AlexanderRex"
> <AlexanderRex [at] HOTMAIL.COM>
>
>>
>> So granite grit 50/50 with bark mulch will do it? Those seem to
>> be the
>> only ingredients I can get hold of in My area.

As someone who has mostly small trees I have to say a heavier soil is
an advantage, it helps keep the pots on the bench when the wind
blows. I can see how it would be a negative with big trees in big pots.

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Hi All,

Is there any problem with leaving a growing light on 24-7 with my ficus?

Thanks,
Steve

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On Oct 6, 2005, at 1:07 PM, Steven Peterson wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> Is there any problem with leaving a growing light on 24-7 with my
> ficus?
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
>
>
I wouldn't. Give a bit of rest at night. Get a timer and have it set
for somewhere around 15-18 hours. My lights are set to go on at 7 AM
and go off at 11 PM.

Craig Cowing
NY
Zone 5b/6a Sunset 37

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In a message dated 10/7/05 12:01:50 AM, Steven writes:
> Is there any problem with leaving a growing light on 24-7 with my Ficus?
>
Yes, there is. There are a few plants, such as vegetable species, where the
seedlings are grown for an initial period of 24 hour lights for rapid
commercial development. All other plants require a dark period for normal growth. There
are certain hormones which change during night & day. Without this the plants
suffer from sleep deprivation as surely as a person trying to stay up too
long.
I grow both tropical bonsai and orchids under fluorescent lights in the
winter. I found the optimum daylength is 18 hours. For bonsai alone you could try
19 hours. Grewia will bloom like crazy, but Serissa won't.
But what do you mean by growing light? If you are trying to use some kind of
incandescent lamp, forget it. Also, I have no experience with other figs, but
F. benjamina cultivars can get along without artificial light for the winter,
as long as they have a sunny windowsill & cool nights. They won't grow much,
but otherwise are OK.
Iris

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Hi Iris,

Thanks for your response. I actually had one person respond with a mere "yes!" to my question (Is there any problem with leaving a growing light on 24-7 with my Ficus?)

I appreciate the way you gave a possible theoretical explanation for why my ficus needs a dark period and especially the way you discussed your personal experience with varying amount of light time. I wish more participants would treat this list as a discussion and not a roll call vote.

You asked:
>But what do you mean by growing light? If you are trying to use some kind of
>incandescent lamp, forget it.

I'm using 2 - 40w flourescent bulbs--not specially marketed growing lights. I have heard that those often aren't bright enough. Will these work? Or would you (or anyone) recommend specially made bulbs?

Regards,
Steve
Philadelphia, Pa
zone 5

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Steve:
I am in Zone 6/7 and have been using regular fluorescents for the last 6 or 7 years. My trees are quite hardy and thriving indoors. I will suggest something I have not read, and that is you should change your lights once a year, since they do seem to loose light intensity. Every New Years, I change all my lights. I have four eight foot and four four foot fluorecents. I hope this helps!

Carl

Steven Peterson <stevenkpeterson [at] MAC.COM> wrote:
Hi Iris,

Thanks for your response. I actually had one person respond with a mere "yes!" to my question (Is there any problem with leaving a growing light on 24-7 with my Ficus?)

I appreciate the way you gave a possible theoretical explanation for why my ficus needs a dark period and especially the way you discussed your personal experience with varying amount of light time. I wish more participants would treat this list as a discussion and not a roll call vote.

You asked:
>But what do you mean by growing light? If you are trying to use some kind of
>incandescent lamp, forget it.

I'm using 2 - 40w flourescent bulbs--not specially marketed growing lights. I have heard that those often aren't bright enough. Will these work? Or would you (or anyone) recommend specially made bulbs?

Regards,
Steve
Philadelphia, Pa
zone 5



Carl L. Rosner - near Atlantic City zone 6/7
Arteacher3725 [at] yahoo.com
www.carlrosner.com
http://www.yessy.com/arteacher3725
http://rosner.becanz.net

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Steve, yes, that' a good idea to change the bulbs every year. Even
though the lights may "shine" the quality of light decreases. The
human eye cannot tell this, but the plants know it.

Also, the center section of the long tube has the best light for
plants. The quality decreases as you go to the two ends.

So a few tips for using fluorescent lights:

Change bulbs once a year.
Position the plants towards the center of the bulbs.
Place the plants as close as possible to the lights, but not touching.
Keep the lights on for approximately 18 hours a day, generally. In
late winter to early spring you may want to increase the light
duration a little.
Use Cool White bulbs if you want vegetative growth.
Use a "plant light" bulb if you want flowers/fruit.

Good luck!

Bill Valavanis

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In a message dated 10/7/05 10:36:27 AM, stevenkpeterson [at] mac.com writes:
> I'm using 2 - 40w fluorescent (sic) bulbs--not specially marketed growing
> lights.   I have heard that those often aren't bright enough.
>
It isn't a question of bright. Unless these are the low energy bulbs, which
are actually 35 W, they are bright enough. For foliage plants, such as Ficus,
they are fine. If you want to get blooms from many flowering plants, you may
need full spectrum tubes.
Iris

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