Grrr. I've got it everywhere. I was told wherever the soil has been
turned it comes up (we're in a new house just built - everything was
previously turned/excavated.) We sowed lawn seed all over the front area
after levelling the saved topsoil from our excavations (close to an
acre) and whilst the lawn seed sprouted more Cape Weed than grass came
up. I gave up lifting them out after about an hour when I saw I had
many hours to go.

We have a large quantity of "Weed & Feed" but it says on the containers
not to use it on new lawns less than 3 months old. It's been in only
about 6 weeks. (A friend who works at a nursery said they use Weed &
Feed there very successfully and got us some at a cheap price so we
bought it.)

Someone here mentioned a little while ago about dabbing kero on the cut
off centre of a plant they wanted to be rid of (lillies I think it was.)
Does anybody think that would work on this weed? We need to give the
area its first mow and wonder if I should do that after the tops are cut
off them.

L

G'day Linda

I know how frustrating it can be starting such a big lawn area from
scratch....been there myself.

Kero would work if dabbed on each plant but I'm just wondering if you
have a Roundup Wand or can borrow one because that would work too. The
wand attaches directly to a small bottle of roundup and has a large wick
(approx 20-25mm). If you don't have a wand maybe you could rig
something similar?

Hope this helps? I'd be hesitant to spray anything unless it's a very
calm day with absolutely NO wind, but that probably depends more on your
location.

Bronwyn ;-)

Linda H wrote:
>
> Grrr. I've got it everywhere. I was told wherever the soil has been
> turned it comes up (we're in a new house just built - everything was
> previously turned/excavated.) We sowed lawn seed all over the front area
> after levelling the saved topsoil from our excavations (close to an
> acre) and whilst the lawn seed sprouted more Cape Weed than grass came
> up. I gave up lifting them out after about an hour when I saw I had
> many hours to go.
>
> We have a large quantity of "Weed & Feed" but it says on the containers
> not to use it on new lawns less than 3 months old. It's been in only
> about 6 weeks. (A friend who works at a nursery said they use Weed &
> Feed there very successfully and got us some at a cheap price so we
> bought it.)
>
> Someone here mentioned a little while ago about dabbing kero on the cut
> off centre of a plant they wanted to be rid of (lillies I think it was.)
> Does anybody think that would work on this weed? We need to give the
> area its first mow and wonder if I should do that after the tops are cut
> off them.
>
> L

HC wrote:
> G'day Linda
>
> I know how frustrating it can be starting such a big lawn area from
> scratch....been there myself.
>
> Kero would work if dabbed on each plant but I'm just wondering if you
> have a Roundup Wand or can borrow one because that would work too.
> The wand attaches directly to a small bottle of roundup and has a
> large wick (approx 20-25mm). If you don't have a wand maybe you could
> rig something similar?
>
> Hope this helps? I'd be hesitant to spray anything unless it's a very
> calm day with absolutely NO wind, but that probably depends more on
> your location.
>
> Bronwyn ;-)
>
> Linda H wrote:
>>
>> Grrr. I've got it everywhere. I was told wherever the soil has been
>> turned it comes up (we're in a new house just built - everything was
>> previously turned/excavated.) We sowed lawn seed all over the front
>> area after levelling the saved topsoil from our excavations (close to
>> an acre) and whilst the lawn seed sprouted more Cape Weed than grass
>> came up. I gave up lifting them out after about an hour when I saw I
>> had many hours to go.
>>
>> We have a large quantity of "Weed & Feed" but it says on the
>> containers not to use it on new lawns less than 3 months old. It's
>> been in only about 6 weeks. (A friend who works at a nursery said
>> they use Weed & Feed there very successfully and got us some at a
>> cheap price so we bought it.)
>>
>> Someone here mentioned a little while ago about dabbing kero on the
>> cut off centre of a plant they wanted to be rid of (lillies I think
>> it was.) Does anybody think that would work on this weed? We need to
>> give the area its first mow and wonder if I should do that after the
>> tops are cut off them.
>>
>> L
A commercial contractor could be hired to spray it safely for you. Ger a
guarantee of him as well in writing...

In article <445b0f5d$0$4539$afc38c87 [at] news.optusnet.com.au>,
Linda H <user [at] abuser.net> wrote:

> Someone here mentioned a little while ago about dabbing kero on the cut
> off centre of a plant they wanted to be rid of (lillies I think it was.)
> Does anybody think that would work on this weed? We need to give the
> area its first mow and wonder if I should do that after the tops are cut
> off them.

I would imagine kero would be even worse for a new lawn than weed & feed --
kero poisons your soil, and iit sounds like you have a lot of it.

Just Googled an image -- I'd never heard of it -- looks very pretty! I have
seen it growing, but not at pest levels. It tends to die off over summer, so
if you can keep your lawn watered your grass should keep growing to cover the
bare patches then. I think Roundup/Zero applied via a wand or squirt bottle
would be your best bet.

--
Chookie -- Sydney, Australia
(Replace "foulspambegone" with "optushome" to reply)

"Parenthood is like the modern stone washing process for denim jeans. You may
start out crisp, neat and tough, but you end up pale, limp and wrinkled."
Kerry Cue

Hi Linda, Look the good news is you can just disregard it. The grass
will soon crowd it out and it's going to die off anyway when it goes
out of season. I wouldn't do weed and feed at all.

the important thing at this stage is not to cut too low, and be
absolutely sure that the young grass is sturdy enough and wont be
pulled out. Cape weed thrives in areas where theres not much nitrogen
so good lawn maintenance of regular feeding and mowing will eliminate
it. and at this stage it's probably doing more good than harm, though
unsightly i know. But it's stabilizing and shading your young grass.
use the time for something more productive, or restful.


--
godwin

"Chookie" <ehrebeniuk [at] fowlspambegone.com.au> wrote in message
news:ehrebeniuk-AFB7FE.17433406052006 [at] news-vip.optusnet.com.au...
> In article <445b0f5d$0$4539$afc38c87 [at] news.optusnet.com.au>,
> Linda H <user [at] abuser.net> wrote:
>
>> Someone here mentioned a little while ago about dabbing kero on the cut
>> off centre of a plant they wanted to be rid of (lillies I think it was.)
>> Does anybody think that would work on this weed? We need to give the
>> area its first mow and wonder if I should do that after the tops are cut
>> off them.
>
> I would imagine kero would be even worse for a new lawn than weed &
> feed --
> kero poisons your soil, and iit sounds like you have a lot of it.
>
> Just Googled an image -- I'd never heard of it (snip)

me too - and discovered it's the flower we called wet-the-bed when i was a
kid! (although i understand everyone seems to have a plant they called
wet-the-bed - & they're all different ;-)
kylie

Thanks to all of you who replied re this. It's been very helpful info
thanks.

We just need to make sure (I'm guessing here) that we need to not let it
get high enough so that it gets to a re-seeding point because the
neighbouring property owners apparently worked hard to (mostly) rid
their places of it. We don't want it to spread to theirs (which was
indicated subtly by one of them.)

Thank you all very much.

L.

godwin wrote:


> Cape weed thrives in areas where theres not much nitrogen
> so good lawn maintenance of regular feeding and mowing will eliminate
> it.


Hmm, that brings up another point I've wondered about, Godwin. How does
one test their soil? Is there something like a pool ph testing kit
available?

L.

Yes there is Linda but only for ph , that's not a lot of help really as
soil PH is not static and soil has a big buffering capacity , usually.
Basically, if you have a sandy soil you have very little available
nutrient, if it's gravelly/clay it will hold nutrient a little better
but probably doesn't have much. if you have a dark loam (plant
chocolate) alluvial soil, your lucky but you still have to keep levels
up. Not many garden plants die from over watering and even less from
the over feeding, but there's plenty of dead and dying from lack. It's
best to just get to know your own soil, space, it's not a lab out
there, there's more variables than you can point a stick at :-)
_godwin


--
godwin

"Linda H" <user [at] abuser.net> wrote in message
> Grrr. I've got it everywhere. I was told wherever the soil has
been
> turned it comes up (we're in a new house just built - everything was
> previously turned/excavated.) We sowed lawn seed all over the front
area
> after levelling the saved topsoil from our excavations (close to an
> acre) and whilst the lawn seed sprouted more Cape Weed than grass
came
> up. I gave up lifting them out after about an hour when I saw I had
> many hours to go.
>
> We have a large quantity of "Weed & Feed" but it says on the
containers
> not to use it on new lawns less than 3 months old. It's been in
only
> about 6 weeks. (A friend who works at a nursery said they use Weed
&
> Feed there very successfully and got us some at a cheap price so we
> bought it.)
>
> Someone here mentioned a little while ago about dabbing kero on the
cut
> off centre of a plant they wanted to be rid of (lillies I think it
was.)
> Does anybody think that would work on this weed? We need to give
the
> area its first mow and wonder if I should do that after the tops are
cut
> off them.

Do nothing till Spring then spray with MCPA and do it again and again
till it dies.

godwin wrote:


> if you have a dark loam (plant
> chocolate) alluvial soil,


Um yep, it's that one. We're in the Kinglake Ranges (Vic.) Deep
reddish chocolate loam and I recall seeing the word 'alluvial' on the
pre-construction soil tests. I think those sort of tests are purely for
building/stability purposes aren't they (?) because maybe there's more
info on the test sheet. I know we've got it somewhere. It smells
incredibly lovely when wet (I'm sure that's not an indication as to the
soil but I just really like the smell and can't get enough of it.

We retained all the top soil from the excavations (massive amounts
heaped up the back of our place - a few people came to ask for some
which is good because we had way too much - about 80+ huge tip truck
loads) because I knew I'd want a lot for raised beds etc.

This area is semi-rural and known for its berry farms and potato
growers. Slightly further down the mountain are the Yarra Valley
vineyards but I think that soil's slightly greyer/different. It's
similar to the soil from around Silvan (Vic.), known for market gardens,
orchards etc. Some say you can grow a table leg in this stuff. I'm yet
to muck around with it.

As for watering and not being on mains water, fortunately we opted for
the biggest tank we could afford (98,000 litres) when we built. It has
been overflowing a lot lately so watering isn't going to be a problem
and soon when we build a shed that'll have another tank.


> It's
> best to just get to know your own soil, space, it's not a lab out
> there, there's more variables than you can point a stick at :-)
> _godwin



I guess I just gotta experiment, huh?

Maybe I should ask one of the spud or brocolli farmers up the road
because I'm yet to learn how to keep the soil good & rich (the levels
you mention.) I don't know what the levels should be.

Thanks heaps for your help, Godwin.

L.


> your lucky but you still have to keep levels
> up. Not many garden plants die from over watering and even less from
> the over feeding, but there's plenty of dead and dying from lack.
>
>

Farm1 wrote:


>
> Do nothing till Spring then spray with MCPA and do it again and again
> till it dies.


MCPA? Can you please tell me if this is a) safe to animals and b)
readily available? Do I simply ask for "MCPA?" (Sorry but I'm really a
learner when it comes to weed stuff.)

Thanks!

L.

In article <kM%6g.23835$vy1.9339 [at] news-server.bigpond.net.au>,
"0tterbot" <spl [at] t.com> wrote:

> me too - and discovered it's the flower we called wet-the-bed when i was a
> kid! (although i understand everyone seems to have a plant they called
> wet-the-bed - & they're all different ;-)

Wet-the-bed, correctly, is the dandelion. From wikipedia:

The name dandelion is a derivation of the Old French, dent-de-lion, literally
"lion's tooth" on account of the sharply lobed leaves of the plant. In modern
French the plant is called pissenlit, "urinate in bed", referring to its
diuretic properties. Likewise, "pissabeds" is an English folkname for this
plant, "piscialletto" in Italian and "meacamas" In Spanish (otherwise known as
"diente de león", lion's tooth).

--
Chookie -- Sydney, Australia
(Replace "foulspambegone" with "optushome" to reply)

"Parenthood is like the modern stone washing process for denim jeans. You may
start out crisp, neat and tough, but you end up pale, limp and wrinkled."
Kerry Cue

Yes linda I guess you do :-) look i'm an organic man myself so that
sways my adice and experience. Buit basicly if you're growing leaf
vegtables they'll need a more fertile soil and ornamentals need to get
off to a good start and just a , 'as the mood takes' regime after that.
it all depends on what you want to grow and whether for fun or profit
and how much land you have etc. Vegtable growing is usually done on a
rotation of high need (spinach, cabbage, lettuce) medium need (carrots
, turnips parsnips) and then legumes (like peas and beans). The most
economic fertilizer i believe to be 'meat meal' this is blood 'n bone
that's used for feeding stock. it's usually cheaper to buy than when
it's labelled Blood 'n bone.

It contains all the main nutrients and has a prolonged effect. If I was
planting a major woody perrenial i'd make yp a mix in a bucket of eight
parts meat meal, two parts chicken manure, and one part urea. mix that
up and dig a hole at least twice as deep as the pot you're plant is in.
For a 200mm pot i'd fill a 130mm squat pot and tip that in the hole and
then half fill the hole mixing the fertilizer through that half. Always
leave a buffer of feww mm of soil over the top so that the plant 's
roots are not in direct contact with fertilizer. Then plant and fill
the hole this will leave excess soil that is displaced by the volume of
the root ball. use this to make a bowl shape so that water is directed
to your plant. Use this method and you'll notice in a couple of weeks
that new growth is happening. And then that plant will grow like
buggery:-) . If you want to let me know what your plans are i'll give
you some more tips , e mail me direct if you like.

- godwin





I guess I just gotta experiment, huh?

Maybe I should ask one of the spud or brocolli farmers up the road
because I'm yet to learn how to keep the soil good & rich (the levels
you mention.) I don't know what the levels should be.

Thanks heaps for your help, Godwin.

L.


--
godwin

"Linda H" <user [at] abuser.net> wrote in message
> Farm1 wrote:

> > Do nothing till Spring then spray with MCPA and do it again and
again
> > till it dies.

> MCPA? Can you please tell me if this is a) safe to animals and b)
> readily available? Do I simply ask for "MCPA?" (Sorry but I'm
really a
> learner when it comes to weed stuff.)

It's a selective herbicide which will deal specifically with Cape
Weed. Roundup/glyphosate will knock everything but MCPA will only
impact on the Cape weed and other weeds like it. Yes, you go to a
rural supplier or a halfway decent garden centre and ask for MCPA - if
they know what they are doing then they will recognise the name in the
same way that they will understand the generic name of "ghlyophosate"
(as opposed to Roundup or Zero). As I understand it, MCPA has no
withholding period and no residue problems but that halfway decent
garden centre/rural supplier should also be able to supply you with a
Materiel Safety Data Sheet too so you can check it's safety for
yourself.

Unfortunatelyt the only real way to get rid of Cape Weed is to spray
it. You could spend every weekend out there with a knife and the
transistor but it is one of those weeds which is soooooo prolific with
it's seeds that you'll never live long enough to eradicate it
organically. MCPA does work as does making sure that you always
retain good soilcover but once you get a few drought spots or bare
earth, it'll be back with a vengeance.

Farm1 wrote:

> It's a selective herbicide which will deal specifically with Cape
> Weed. Roundup/glyphosate will knock everything but MCPA will only
> impact on the Cape weed and other weeds like it. Yes, you go to a
> rural supplier or a halfway decent garden centre and ask for MCPA - if
> they know what they are doing then they will recognise the name in the
> same way that they will understand the generic name of "ghlyophosate"
> (as opposed to Roundup or Zero). As I understand it, MCPA has no
> withholding period and no residue problems but that halfway decent
> garden centre/rural supplier should also be able to supply you with a
> Materiel Safety Data Sheet too so you can check it's safety for
> yourself.
>
> Unfortunatelyt the only real way to get rid of Cape Weed is to spray
> it. You could spend every weekend out there with a knife and the
> transistor but it is one of those weeds which is soooooo prolific with
> it's seeds that you'll never live long enough to eradicate it
> organically. MCPA does work as does making sure that you always
> retain good soilcover but once you get a few drought spots or bare
> earth, it'll be back with a vengeance.


What great information. You're a gem Farm1. Thanks heaps.

L.

Thank you again, Godwin. Thanks so much too for offering to give me
more tips when I have a plan. I don't quite have one yet

Next, (in a new thread) I'm going to ask you Wonderkids about a dog
eating certain plants.

You guys really are great with your info!

L.

godwin wrote:


> The most
> economic fertilizer i believe to be 'meat meal' this is blood 'n bone
> that's used for feeding stock. it's usually cheaper to buy than when
> it's labelled Blood 'n bone.
>
> It contains all the main nutrients and has a prolonged effect. If I was
> planting a major woody perrenial i'd make yp a mix in a bucket of eight
> parts meat meal, two parts chicken manure, and one part urea. mix that
> up and dig a hole at least twice as deep as the pot you're plant is in.



Oh and Godwin? When you say a "part" how much do you reckon is one
part, a handful? (Let's just say I was going to plant something like
um... a lemon tree, for example.) And would you get meat meal at a
stock feed supplies place?


L.

Hi Linda

A friend of mine, who is a vet, emailed me just 15 minutes ago, about a
plant commonly grown in gardens, called Brunfelsia. Here is what she wrote:

I read today in a veterinary publication that Brunfelsia australis
contains a potent neurotoxin in the leaves and flowers and is palatable to
dogs. The vet who wrote the article was seeing a lot of cases over East,
mainly because someone was handing
out lots of cuttings to people who stopped to admire his lovely bush!

My friend mentioned this to me, because she has a Brunfelsia in her garden -
which I gave her as a gift! - and she has two dogs. Brunfelsia is such a
pretty plant, and it seems to be very popular at the moment. Still.....
something to be aware of.

~Roberta~


"Linda H" <user [at] abuser.net> wrote in message
news:4460387e$0$7527$afc38c87 [at] news.optusnet.com.au...
> Thank you again, Godwin. Thanks so much too for offering to give me more
> tips when I have a plan. I don't quite have one yet
>
> Next, (in a new thread) I'm going to ask you Wonderkids about a dog eating
> certain plants.
>
> You guys really are great with your info!
>
> L.

Roberta Bagshaw wrote:


> I read today in a veterinary publication that Brunfelsia australis
> contains a potent neurotoxin in the leaves and flowers and is palatable to
> dogs. The vet who wrote the article was seeing a lot of cases over East,
> mainly because someone was handing
> out lots of cuttings to people who stopped to admire his lovely bush!


Hmm, interesting, Roberta. Thanks, I'm going to look more into that.

L.

Linda H wrote:
> Roberta Bagshaw wrote:
>
>
>> I read today in a veterinary publication that Brunfelsia australis
>> contains a potent neurotoxin in the leaves and flowers and is
>> palatable to dogs. The vet who wrote the article was seeing a lot of
>> cases over East, mainly because someone was handing
>> out lots of cuttings to people who stopped to admire his lovely bush!


Hi again, Roberta. I just typed 'Brunfelsia australis' into Google
images (
http://images.google.com/images?q=Brunfelsia+australis&s vnum=10&hl=en&lr=&start &sa=N
) and yes, that's a pretty mauve flower so I can see why some people
have adopted it as an ornamental plant. I'll be sure to warn anyone I
see with it about its toxic properties for dogs.

Fortunately we don't have any of that growing wild where we are. Then I
decided to look at pics of Cape Weed. Someone in here mentioned it as
the old wives tale plant we used to call "wet-the-bed" and yeah, that's
wet-the-bed alright.

BUT... that's not the weed I've been calling Cape Weed (which is the
name the neigbours told me it was.) It's not! The weed that is our
particular problem comes up with a pretty little pale butter coloured
flower that attracts tons of those similar coloured butterflies. I'll
search for weed images and see if I can find the name of it.

L.

Linda H wrote:


> BUT... that's not the weed I've been calling Cape Weed (which is the
> name the neigbours told me it was.) It's not! The weed that is our
> particular problem comes up with a pretty little pale butter coloured
> flower that attracts tons of those similar coloured butterflies. I'll
> search for weed images and see if I can find the name of it.


Damn, I found a great website that you can click on your zone with many
pics of weeds known to that area ( www.weeds.org.au ) but still I can't
identify the weed I thought was Cape. Grrr.

The closest I can see to resemble it is something like Saggitaria or
Parthenium but it's not those. I would take a photo but there's none
"up" at the moment coz we've mowed all the tops off.

I'll keep searching.

L.

"Linda H" <user [at] abuser.net> wrote in message
> godwin wrote:
>
>
> > The most
> > economic fertilizer i believe to be 'meat meal' this is blood 'n
bone
> > that's used for feeding stock. it's usually cheaper to buy than
when
> > it's labelled Blood 'n bone.
> >
> > It contains all the main nutrients and has a prolonged effect. If
I was
> > planting a major woody perrenial i'd make yp a mix in a bucket of
eight
> > parts meat meal, two parts chicken manure, and one part urea. mix
that
> > up and dig a hole at least twice as deep as the pot you're plant
is in.
>
>
>
> Oh and Godwin? When you say a "part" how much do you reckon is one
> part, a handful? (Let's just say I was going to plant something
like
> um... a lemon tree, for example.) And would you get meat meal at a
> stock feed supplies place?

The "part" can be anything by measure. It can be 8 buckets or 8
handfulls. Just make sure that when you add the 2 parts chicken
manure (or whatever it is you're adding by part) then you measure out
the 2 parts by the same measure as you used the first time round (ie
either a bucket or a handful or whatever your "part" measure happened
to be).

Hi Linda

Check out this site - maybe you can identify your weed
http://www.directpestcontrol.com.au/weeds.htm

Your post reminded me of a conversation that I had recently with my elderly
neighbour Val who is a very keen gardener, and keeps a meticulous buffalo
grass lawn. The last couple of years we have had problems with clover weed
in garden beds and in lawns. The type of clover is that red stemmed one
that has a very dense cover - almost a mat - of leaves.

Val remembered that years ago (pre-herbicide days) the easy way to rid
yourself of many weeds was to apply a strong dose of Sulphate of Ammonia
which literally burned the weed by an overapplication of nitrogen. She
applied it to her plague of clover and got rid of it! It is certainly a
cheap (and relatively safe) solution.

Maybe you could try it on a bit of your weed and see what happens?

Cheers
~Bobby~


"Linda H" <user [at] abuser.net> wrote in message
news:44612176$0$3027$afc38c87 [at] news.optusnet.com.au...
> Linda H wrote:
>
>
>> BUT... that's not the weed I've been calling Cape Weed (which is the name
>> the neigbours told me it was.) It's not! The weed that is our
>> particular problem comes up with a pretty little pale butter coloured
>> flower that attracts tons of those similar coloured butterflies. I'll
>> search for weed images and see if I can find the name of it.
>
>
> Damn, I found a great website that you can click on your zone with many
> pics of weeds known to that area ( www.weeds.org.au ) but still I can't
> identify the weed I thought was Cape. Grrr.
>
> The closest I can see to resemble it is something like Saggitaria or
> Parthenium but it's not those. I would take a photo but there's none "up"
> at the moment coz we've mowed all the tops off.
>
> I'll keep searching.
>
> L.
>
>

In article <446119c6$0$25130$afc38c87 [at] news.optusnet.com.au>,
Linda H <user [at] abuser.net> wrote:

> Hi again, Roberta. I just typed 'Brunfelsia australis' into Google
> images (
> http://images.google.com/images?q=Brunfelsia+australis&s vnum=10&hl=en&lr=&star
> t &sa=N
> ) and yes, that's a pretty mauve flower so I can see why some people
> have adopted it as an ornamental plant. I'll be sure to warn anyone I
> see with it about its toxic properties for dogs.

I only wish it were attractive to the next-door neighbour's cats!

The common name is Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow: the flowers change colour
each day for 3 days.

--
Chookie -- Sydney, Australia
(Replace "foulspambegone" with "optushome" to reply)

"Parenthood is like the modern stone washing process for denim jeans. You may
start out crisp, neat and tough, but you end up pale, limp and wrinkled."
Kerry Cue

Roberta Bagshaw wrote:


> ...a strong dose of Sulphate of Ammonia
> which literally burned the weed by an overapplication of nitrogen. She
> applied it to her plague of clover and got rid of it! It is certainly a
> cheap (and relatively safe) solution.


Okay, that's worth a bash, Roberta. So, Sulphate of Ammonia; where do
you buy that? (Sorry, I know I seem to be vague about availability of
these chemicals - but yeah, I am, I'm as vague as... as that stuff you
buy from that whatsitsname place, you know?)

L.

Chookie wrote:

> The common name is Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow: the flowers change colour
> each day for 3 days.

That crap. Invasive bastard. One day I'm going to give those distant
shoots a dose of glycho.

OTOH, you can mash the bastard with anything you like and it comes back.

It was the pox in swmbo's dowry and I'm not allowed to eradicate it.

"Roberta Bagshaw" <rbagshaw [at] midwest.com.au> wrote in message

> Your post reminded me of a conversation that I had recently with my
elderly
> neighbour Val who is a very keen gardener,
> Val remembered that years ago (pre-herbicide days) the easy way to
rid
> yourself of many weeds was to apply a strong dose of Sulphate of
Ammonia
> which literally burned the weed by an overapplication of nitrogen.
She
> applied it to her plague of clover and got rid of it! It is
certainly a
> cheap (and relatively safe) solution.

Sulphate of Ammonia is a good product to use BUT it can't solve this
particular problem. Cape Weed is one weed that it will not work on
although it will work on other broadleaf plants such as plantain and
dandelion and also it can't be used at this time of year. It must be
used in Spring (as do most of the other products) which must be used
on actively growing weeds.

In article
<446275a0$0$25244$61c65585 [at] un-2park-reader-01.sydney.pipenetworks.com.au>,
Terry Collins <newsonespam-spam [at] woa.com.au> wrote:

> > The common name is Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow: the flowers change colour
> > each day for 3 days.
>
> That crap. Invasive bastard. One day I'm going to give those distant
> shoots a dose of glycho.

Not as invasive as the cats from next door, I assure you!

--
Chookie -- Sydney, Australia
(Replace "foulspambegone" with "optushome" to reply)

"Parenthood is like the modern stone washing process for denim jeans. You may
start out crisp, neat and tough, but you end up pale, limp and wrinkled."
Kerry Cue

In article <44626b04$0$31248$afc38c87 [at] news.optusnet.com.au>,
Linda H <user [at] abuser.net> wrote:

> > ...a strong dose of Sulphate of Ammonia
> > which literally burned the weed by an overapplication of nitrogen. She
> > applied it to her plague of clover and got rid of it! It is certainly a
> > cheap (and relatively safe) solution.

It works on clover because clover is a nitrogen-fixing plant -- you are giving
it a nitrogen overdose, against which it has no defences (you can kill some
Australian plants with phosphorus the same way). If Cape Weed isn't a legume,
it won't work. You could try boiling water, but as it's a perennial it
probably will still stagger along.

> Okay, that's worth a bash, Roberta. So, Sulphate of Ammonia; where do
> you buy that? (Sorry, I know I seem to be vague about availability of
> these chemicals - but yeah, I am, I'm as vague as... as that stuff you
> buy from that whatsitsname place, you know?)

Hardware shops and nurseries.

--
Chookie -- Sydney, Australia
(Replace "foulspambegone" with "optushome" to reply)

"Parenthood is like the modern stone washing process for denim jeans. You may
start out crisp, neat and tough, but you end up pale, limp and wrinkled."
Kerry Cue

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Chookie wrote:
> In article <44626b04$0$31248$afc38c87 [at] news.optusnet.com.au>,
> Linda H <user [at] abuser.net> wrote:
>
>
>>> ...a strong dose of Sulphate of Ammonia
>>> which literally burned the weed by an overapplication of nitrogen. She
>>> applied it to her plague of clover and got rid of it! It is certainly a
>>> cheap (and relatively safe) solution.
>>>
>
> It works on clover because clover is a nitrogen-fixing plant -- you are giving
> it a nitrogen overdose, against which it has no defences (you can kill some
> Australian plants with phosphorus the same way). If Cape Weed isn't a legume,
> it won't work. You could try boiling water, but as it's a perennial it
> probably will still stagger along.
>
>
>> Okay, that's worth a bash, Roberta. So, Sulphate of Ammonia; where do
>> you buy that? (Sorry, I know I seem to be vague about availability of
>> these chemicals - but yeah, I am, I'm as vague as... as that stuff you
>> buy from that whatsitsname place, you know?)
>>
>
> Hardware shops and nurseries.
>
>
Dunno but a hungry goat sounds like it could do the job...
Chooks?

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Chookie wrote:
<blockquote
cite="midehrebeniuk-DD3018.17082111052006 [at] news-vip.optusnet.com.au"
type="cite">
<pre wrap="">In article <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:44626b04$0$31248$afc38c87 [at] news.optusnet.com.au">&lt;44626b04$0$31248$afc38c87 [at] news.optusnet.com.au&gt;</a>,
Linda H <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:user [at] abuser.net">&lt;user [at] abuser.net&gt;</a> wrote:

</pre>
<blockquote type="cite">
<blockquote type="cite">
<pre wrap="">...a strong dose of Sulphate of Ammonia
which literally burned the weed by an overapplication of nitrogen. She
applied it to her plague of clover and got rid of it! It is certainly a
cheap (and relatively safe) solution.
</pre>
</blockquote>
</blockquote>
<pre wrap=""><!---->
It works on clover because clover is a nitrogen-fixing plant -- you are giving
it a nitrogen overdose, against which it has no defences (you can kill some
Australian plants with phosphorus the same way). If Cape Weed isn't a legume,
it won't work. You could try boiling water, but as it's a perennial it
probably will still stagger along.

</pre>
<blockquote type="cite">
<pre wrap="">Okay, that's worth a bash, Roberta. So, Sulphate of Ammonia; where do
you buy that? (Sorry, I know I seem to be vague about availability of
these chemicals - but yeah, I am, I'm as vague as... as that stuff you
buy from that whatsitsname place, you know?)
</pre>
</blockquote>
<pre wrap=""><!---->
Hardware shops and nurseries.

</pre>
</blockquote>
Dunno but a hungry goat sounds like it could do the job...<br>
Chooks? <br>
</body>
</html>

--------------090604010003080705040309--

Yep Jonno..... a hungry goat would probably do it..... and chooks would
probably do the trick also..... but not everyone can keep animals where they
live!

Personally I found geese very helpful for keeping many weeds under control,
and would make sure that when the goslings hatched, I would feed them any
edible weeds so that would become part of their preferred grazing for the
rest of their days!

~B~

"Jonno" <aidplus [at] fastamail.thanu.com.au> wrote in message
news:4462F6EC.8010002 [at] fastamail.thanu.com.au...
> Chookie wrote:
>> In article <44626b04$0$31248$afc38c87 [at] news.optusnet.com.au>,
>> Linda H <user [at] abuser.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>> ...a strong dose of Sulphate of Ammonia
>>>> which literally burned the weed by an overapplication of nitrogen. She
>>>> applied it to her plague of clover and got rid of it! It is certainly
>>>> a
>>>> cheap (and relatively safe) solution.
>>>>
>>
>> It works on clover because clover is a nitrogen-fixing plant -- you are
>> giving
>> it a nitrogen overdose, against which it has no defences (you can kill
>> some
>> Australian plants with phosphorus the same way). If Cape Weed isn't a
>> legume,
>> it won't work. You could try boiling water, but as it's a perennial it
>> probably will still stagger along.
>>
>>
>>> Okay, that's worth a bash, Roberta. So, Sulphate of Ammonia; where do
>>> you buy that? (Sorry, I know I seem to be vague about availability of
>>> these chemicals - but yeah, I am, I'm as vague as... as that stuff you
>>> buy from that whatsitsname place, you know?)
>>>
>>
>> Hardware shops and nurseries.
>>
>>
> Dunno but a hungry goat sounds like it could do the job...
> Chooks?
>

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Roberta Bagshaw wrote:
> Yep Jonno..... a hungry goat would probably do it..... and chooks would
> probably do the trick also..... but not everyone can keep animals where they
> live!
>
> Personally I found geese very helpful for keeping many weeds under control,
> and would make sure that when the goslings hatched, I would feed them any
> edible weeds so that would become part of their preferred grazing for the
> rest of their days!
>
> ~B~
>
> "Jonno" <aidplus [at] fastamail.thanu.com.au> wrote in message
> news:4462F6EC.8010002 [at] fastamail.thanu.com.au...
>
>> Chookie wrote:
>>
>>> In article <44626b04$0$31248$afc38c87 [at] news.optusnet.com.au>,
>>> Linda H <user [at] abuser.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>> ...a strong dose of Sulphate of Ammonia
>>>>> which literally burned the weed by an overapplication of nitrogen. She
>>>>> applied it to her plague of clover and got rid of it! It is certainly
>>>>> a
>>>>> cheap (and relatively safe) solution.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>> It works on clover because clover is a nitrogen-fixing plant -- you are
>>> giving
>>> it a nitrogen overdose, against which it has no defences (you can kill
>>> some
>>> Australian plants with phosphorus the same way). If Cape Weed isn't a
>>> legume,
>>> it won't work. You could try boiling water, but as it's a perennial it
>>> probably will still stagger along.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> Okay, that's worth a bash, Roberta. So, Sulphate of Ammonia; where do
>>>> you buy that? (Sorry, I know I seem to be vague about availability of
>>>> these chemicals - but yeah, I am, I'm as vague as... as that stuff you
>>>> buy from that whatsitsname place, you know?)
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Hardware shops and nurseries.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> Dunno but a hungry goat sounds like it could do the job...
>> Chooks?
>>
>>
>
>
>
I'd buy a cheap one first though, just to test it out (grin!!)

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Roberta Bagshaw wrote:
<blockquote cite="mid4462fccb$1 [at] quokka.wn.com.au" type="cite">
<pre wrap="">Yep Jonno..... a hungry goat would probably do it..... and chooks would
probably do the trick also..... but not everyone can keep animals where they
live!

Personally I found geese very helpful for keeping many weeds under control,
and would make sure that when the goslings hatched, I would feed them any
edible weeds so that would become part of their preferred grazing for the
rest of their days!

~B~

"Jonno" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:aidplus [at] fastamail.thanu.com.au">&lt;aidplus [at] fastamail.thanu.com.au&gt;</a> wrote in message
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="news:4462F6EC.8010002 [at] fastamail.thanu.com.au">news:4462F6EC.8010002 [at] fastamail.thanu.com.au</a>...
</pre>
<blockquote type="cite">
<pre wrap="">Chookie wrote:
</pre>
<blockquote type="cite">
<pre wrap="">In article <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:44626b04$0$31248$afc38c87 [at] news.optusnet.com.au">&lt;44626b04$0$31248$afc38c87 [at] news.optusnet.com.au&gt;</a>,
Linda H <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:user [at] abuser.net">&lt;user [at] abuser.net&gt;</a> wrote:


</pre>
<blockquote type="cite">
<blockquote type="cite">
<pre wrap="">...a strong dose of Sulphate of Ammonia
which literally burned the weed by an overapplication of nitrogen. She
applied it to her plague of clover and got rid of it! It is certainly
a
cheap (and relatively safe) solution.

</pre>
</blockquote>
</blockquote>
<pre wrap="">It works on clover because clover is a nitrogen-fixing plant -- you are
giving
it a nitrogen overdose, against which it has no defences (you can kill
some
Australian plants with phosphorus the same way). If Cape Weed isn't a
legume,
it won't work. You could try boiling water, but as it's a perennial it
probably will still stagger along.


</pre>
<blockquote type="cite">
<pre wrap="">Okay, that's worth a bash, Roberta. So, Sulphate of Ammonia; where do
you buy that? (Sorry, I know I seem to be vague about availability of
these chemicals - but yeah, I am, I'm as vague as... as that stuff you
buy from that whatsitsname place, you know?)

</pre>
</blockquote>
<pre wrap="">Hardware shops and nurseries.


</pre>
</blockquote>
<pre wrap="">Dunno but a hungry goat sounds like it could do the job...
Chooks?

</pre>
</blockquote>
<pre wrap=""><!---->

</pre>
</blockquote>
I'd buy a cheap one first though, just to test it out (grin!!)<br>
</body>
</html>

--------------060008000109000508070108--

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Jonno wrote:
> Roberta Bagshaw wrote:
>> Yep Jonno..... a hungry goat would probably do it..... and chooks would
>> probably do the trick also..... but not everyone can keep animals where they
>> live!
>>
>> Personally I found geese very helpful for keeping many weeds under control,
>> and would make sure that when the goslings hatched, I would feed them any
>> edible weeds so that would become part of their preferred grazing for the
>> rest of their days!
>>
>> ~B~
>>
>> "Jonno" <aidplus [at] fastamail.thanu.com.au> wrote in message
>> news:4462F6EC.8010002 [at] fastamail.thanu.com.au...
>>
>>> Chookie wrote:
>>>
>>>> In article <44626b04$0$31248$afc38c87 [at] news.optusnet.com.au>,
>>>> Linda H <user [at] abuser.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>> ...a strong dose of Sulphate of Ammonia
>>>>>> which literally burned the weed by an overapplication of nitrogen. She
>>>>>> applied it to her plague of clover and got rid of it! It is certainly
>>>>>> a
>>>>>> cheap (and relatively safe) solution.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>> It works on clover because clover is a nitrogen-fixing plant -- you are
>>>> giving
>>>> it a nitrogen overdose, against which it has no defences (you can kill
>>>> some
>>>> Australian plants with phosphorus the same way). If Cape Weed isn't a
>>>> legume,
>>>> it won't work. You could try boiling water, but as it's a perennial it
>>>> probably will still stagger along.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Okay, that's worth a bash, Roberta. So, Sulphate of Ammonia; where do
>>>>> you buy that? (Sorry, I know I seem to be vague about availability of
>>>>> these chemicals - but yeah, I am, I'm as vague as... as that stuff you
>>>>> buy from that whatsitsname place, you know?)
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> Hardware shops and nurseries.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Dunno but a hungry goat sounds like it could do the job...
>>> Chooks?
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
> I'd buy a cheap one first though, just to test it out (grin!!)
Also geese make a great alarm/attack system. Being the victim of one
such attack I can vouch for it.
Goats, well ya dont bend over...


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<meta content="text/html;charset=ISO-8859-1" http-equiv="Content-Type">
</head>
<body bgcolor="#ffffff" text="#000000">
Jonno wrote:
<blockquote cite="mid44630949.3090804 [at] fastamail.thanu.com.au"
type="cite">
<meta content="text/html;charset=ISO-8859-1" http-equiv="Content-Type">
Roberta Bagshaw wrote:
<blockquote cite="mid4462fccb$1 [at] quokka.wn.com.au" type="cite">
<pre wrap="">Yep Jonno..... a hungry goat would probably do it..... and chooks would
probably do the trick also..... but not everyone can keep animals where they
live!

Personally I found geese very helpful for keeping many weeds under control,
and would make sure that when the goslings hatched, I would feed them any
edible weeds so that would become part of their preferred grazing for the
rest of their days!

~B~

"Jonno" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:aidplus [at] fastamail.thanu.com.au">&lt;aidplus [at] fastamail.thanu.com.au&gt;</a> wrote in message
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="news:4462F6EC.8010002 [at] fastamail.thanu.com.au">news:4462F6EC.8010002 [at] fastamail.thanu.com.au</a>...
</pre>
<blockquote type="cite">
<pre wrap="">Chookie wrote:
</pre>
<blockquote type="cite">
<pre wrap="">In article <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:44626b04$0$31248$afc38c87 [at] news.optusnet.com.au">&lt;44626b04$0$31248$afc38c87 [at] news.optusnet.com.au&gt;</a>,
Linda H <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:user [at] abuser.net">&lt;user [at] abuser.net&gt;</a> wrote:


</pre>
<blockquote type="cite">
<blockquote type="cite">
<pre wrap="">...a strong dose of Sulphate of Ammonia
which literally burned the weed by an overapplication of nitrogen. She
applied it to her plague of clover and got rid of it! It is certainly
a
cheap (and relatively safe) solution.

</pre>
</blockquote>
</blockquote>
<pre wrap="">It works on clover because clover is a nitrogen-fixing plant -- you are
giving
it a nitrogen overdose, against which it has no defences (you can kill
some
Australian plants with phosphorus the same way). If Cape Weed isn't a
legume,
it won't work. You could try boiling water, but as it's a perennial it
probably will still stagger along.


</pre>
<blockquote type="cite">
<pre wrap="">Okay, that's worth a bash, Roberta. So, Sulphate of Ammonia; where do
you buy that? (Sorry, I know I seem to be vague about availability of
these chemicals - but yeah, I am, I'm as vague as... as that stuff you
buy from that whatsitsname place, you know?)

</pre>
</blockquote>
<pre wrap="">Hardware shops and nurseries.


</pre>
</blockquote>
<pre wrap="">Dunno but a hungry goat sounds like it could do the job...
Chooks?

</pre>
</blockquote>
<pre wrap=""><!---->

</pre>
</blockquote>
I'd buy a cheap one first though, just to test it out (grin!!)<br>
</blockquote>
Also geese make a great alarm/attack system. Being the victim of one
such attack I can vouch for it.<br>
Goats, well ya dont bend over...<br>
<br>
</body>
</html>

--------------060908060407090709040105--

Chookie wrote:

>
> Not as invasive as the cats from next door, I assure you!

True, they have to walk right past it and as I found out today, over a
new sucker.
>