Have plenty of tree branches and leaves. Want to use as fertilizer.
What is the simplest and most effective way to use it as a mulch?

Mark wrote:
> Have plenty of tree branches and leaves. Want to use as fertilizer.
> What is the simplest and most effective way to use it as a mulch?

If you have a mulcher that will pulverize the branches and leaves
together then you just need to start a compost pile. If you don't have
a mulcher machine then you will need to strip the leaves from the
branches and toss the branches aside as they will take far too long to
decompose.

Your compost pile will need to age about a year before it's good to
use. You can add grass clippings, fallen leaves, and leftover
vegetable and plant material from dinner, though no protein or milk
sources at all!

As far as waste goes, especialy those of pets, do not add these to the
compost pile. You can create a seperate compost specificly for this
type of waste and you will want to age it about 1 1/2 to 2 years or
more before using. (Never use Human waste at all)

Your compost pile should be kept moist at all times, though not soaking
wet. Compost piles generate heat so do not store any explosive
chemicals or gasoline nearby.

-Jason

<< If you have a mulcher>>
I do not. Is it real expensive to buy?
Can I buy old one?

<< then you just need to start a compost pile>>
Does it have to be a pile? Can it be in the ground instead of taking
space in the yard?


<<will take far too long to decompose>>
Is there a way to speed up the process of decomposing?

Lucky wrote:
> Mark wrote:
> > Have plenty of tree branches and leaves. Want to use as fertilizer.
> > What is the simplest and most effective way to use it as a mulch?
>
> If you have a mulcher that will pulverize the branches and leaves
> together then you just need to start a compost pile. If you don't have
> a mulcher machine then you will need to strip the leaves from the
> branches and toss the branches aside as they will take far too long to
> decompose.
>
> Your compost pile will need to age about a year before it's good to
> use. You can add grass clippings, fallen leaves, and leftover
> vegetable and plant material from dinner, though no protein or milk
> sources at all!
>
> As far as waste goes, especialy those of pets, do not add these to the
> compost pile. You can create a seperate compost specificly for this
> type of waste and you will want to age it about 1 1/2 to 2 years or
> more before using. (Never use Human waste at all)
>
> Your compost pile should be kept moist at all times, though not soaking
> wet. Compost piles generate heat so do not store any explosive
> chemicals or gasoline nearby.
>
> -Jason

Mark wrote:
> << If you have a mulcher>>
> I do not. Is it real expensive to buy?
> Can I buy old one?

Depends on your budget. Check the Classifieds, Thrift Stores, etc...


>
> << then you just need to start a compost pile>>
> Does it have to be a pile? Can it be in the ground instead of taking
> space in the yard?
>

Most compost piles are indeed kept "in the ground", if not in a
pre-constructed compartment. You could even bury a trash can and keep
the led portion level with the ground. It's all up to your creativity.
(You will need to turn it over every month or so with a shovel)

>
> <<will take far too long to decompose>>
> Is there a way to speed up the process of decomposing?

No.

>
> Lucky wrote:
> > Mark wrote:
> > > Have plenty of tree branches and leaves. Want to use as fertilizer.
> > > What is the simplest and most effective way to use it as a mulch?
> >
> > If you have a mulcher that will pulverize the branches and leaves
> > together then you just need to start a compost pile. If you don't have
> > a mulcher machine then you will need to strip the leaves from the
> > branches and toss the branches aside as they will take far too long to
> > decompose.
> >
> > Your compost pile will need to age about a year before it's good to
> > use. You can add grass clippings, fallen leaves, and leftover
> > vegetable and plant material from dinner, though no protein or milk
> > sources at all!
> >
> > As far as waste goes, especialy those of pets, do not add these to the
> > compost pile. You can create a seperate compost specificly for this
> > type of waste and you will want to age it about 1 1/2 to 2 years or
> > more before using. (Never use Human waste at all)
> >
> > Your compost pile should be kept moist at all times, though not soaking
> > wet. Compost piles generate heat so do not store any explosive
> > chemicals or gasoline nearby.
> >
> > -Jason

"Lucky" <LuckyHoodoo [at] aol.com> wrote in
news:1149213094.334170.264450 [at] y43g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:

>
> Mark wrote:
><Snip!>
>>
>> <<will take far too long to decompose>>
>> Is there a way to speed up the process of decomposing?
>
> No.
>

I don't know about that... A well-placed fire can do wonders for
accelerating decomposition.

(CYA time: But I don't recommend it. At all. This post was a joke. Do
not set fire to your refuse.)

--Bryan

--
************************************************************
* Can't see the Forest | Bryan B. *
* Through the Trees? | Reply if you want. E-mail *
* Take it out! | address changes frequently *
* (Damn Viruses!) | to foil spambots. *
************************************************************

"Lucky" <LuckyHoodoo [at] aol.com> wrote in message
news:1149186385.916697.273110 [at] h76g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

> As far as waste goes, especialy those of pets, do not add these to the
> compost pile.

You don't mean "pets", you mean "non-vegetarian pets" here. Guinea pig poop
has been a great addition to our worm box. When I worked with my kids'
preschool vegetable garden, we composted the school's rabbits' poop with
great success. Horse, cow, and chicken manure are traditional fertilizers.
But yeah, you shouldn't put dog or cat poop in your compost heap.


--
Warm Regards,

Claire Petersky
http://www.bicyclemeditations.org/
See the books I've set free at: http://bookcrossing.com/referral/Cpetersky

Mark

http://mercury.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html

Sincerely,

John A. Keslick, Jr.
Beware of so-called TREE EXPERTS who do not understand TREE BIOLOGY!
www.treedictionary.com

http://mercury.ccil.org/~treeman/
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.
Some people will buy products they do not understand and not buy books that
will give them understanding.
"Mark" <tentimes5 [at] hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1149185482.113409.12500 [at] y43g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> Have plenty of tree branches and leaves. Want to use as fertilizer.
> What is the simplest and most effective way to use it as a mulch?
>

Lucky wrote:
> Mark wrote:
> > << If you have a mulcher>>
> > I do not. Is it real expensive to buy?
> > Can I buy old one?
>
> Depends on your budget. Check the Classifieds, Thrift Stores, etc...
>
>
> >
> > << then you just need to start a compost pile>>
> > Does it have to be a pile? Can it be in the ground instead of taking
> > space in the yard?
> >
>
> Most compost piles are indeed kept "in the ground", if not in a
> pre-constructed compartment. You could even bury a trash can and keep
> the led portion level with the ground. It's all up to your creativity.
> (You will need to turn it over every month or so with a shovel)
>
> >
> > <<will take far too long to decompose>>
> > Is there a way to speed up the process of decomposing?
>
> No.

Well, that depends. Different materials compost at different rates. You
might have some luck making a "hotter" pile with more rapidly
decomposing materials (grass, other green stuff), though I don't know
for sure to what extent this will affect the rate of the slower
materials in the pile. Either way, I've gotten lots of finished compost
in periods of a couple of months, during warmer weather. Wood chips
will definitely take longer than a lot of things, but not a year if
done fine enough and included in the right mix.

On 1 Jun 2006 11:48:34 -0700, "Mark" <tentimes5 [at] hotmail.com> wrote:

><< If you have a mulcher>>
>I do not. Is it real expensive to buy?
>Can I buy old one?
>
><< then you just need to start a compost pile>>
>Does it have to be a pile? Can it be in the ground instead of taking
>space in the yard?
>
>
><<will take far too long to decompose>>
>Is there a way to speed up the process of decomposing?
>
You can also rent a brush chipper for about $100-$150/day. You can
probably do all you need in a 1/2 day if you can find anyone to rent
it that way. Make sure to listen carefully when they explain proper
usage and safety procedures.

John A. Keslick, Jr. wrote:
> Mark
>
> http://mercury.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html
>
> Sincerely,
>
> John A. Keslick, Jr.
> Beware of so-called TREE EXPERTS who do not understand TREE BIOLOGY!
> www.treedictionary.com

He wants to use tree branches and leaves as mulch, not to learn how to
mulch trees.

-Jason

Jason

If he is going to mulch trees with the product, it would be nice to know
the proper way. Many people, don't get it. Don't believe it because I said
it, yet believe it because you see it for yourself.

Anyway, you can use branches as mulch. That is a very good question. I am
glad you asked that question. What I am trying to say is that mulch comes
in different gradations. From composted leaves to tree trunks. I. e., if
you go to where trees received their genetic codes or shall I say
requirements (in a group). You can find some benefits of larger mulch here:
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/SOUND/soundscience/in dex.html

You could make a brush pile for small wildlife and such or you could give
the wood from the branches soil contact. You could cut them in 4' pieces.
In areas of fire concern, by giving the wood soil contact, you can reduce
fire risk. There must be more than just fear of fire in the decision making
processes of the management of trees and their associates..

If you chipped the branches, I would suggest composting the wood chips for a
year first. Unless the wood is symplastless, which then the wood chips
would be fine at the time of chipping. Also by aging, you reduce the
chances of artillery fungus. Fresh chips can attract undesirables which can
and do do nasty things above as well as below ground. Mulch should be
approximately 4" thick and flat. Keep the mulch back from the trunk flair
about 6" if you can. BTW, when we chip a branch with a symplast, we cut the
parenchyma cells thus smearing protoplasm all over the place. That is what
attracts the undesirables that attack the defenseless cell contents. You do
not have that situation when you use the 4' lengths of branches.

Not the last word on the topic.

Sincerely,

John A. Keslick, Jr.
Beware of so-called TREE EXPERTS who do not understand TREE BIOLOGY!
www.treedictionary.com

http://mercury.ccil.org/~treeman/
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.
Some people will buy products they do not understand and not buy books that
will give them understanding.
"Lucky" <LuckyHoodoo [at] aol.com> wrote in message
news:1149272441.515570.187200 [at] j55g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>
> John A. Keslick, Jr. wrote:
> > Mark
> >
> > http://mercury.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html
> >
> > Sincerely,
> >
> > John A. Keslick, Jr.
> > Beware of so-called TREE EXPERTS who do not understand TREE BIOLOGY!
> > www.treedictionary.com
>
> He wants to use tree branches and leaves as mulch, not to learn how to
> mulch trees.
>
> -Jason
>

John A. Keslick, Jr. wrote:
> Jason
>
> If he is going to mulch trees with the product, it would be nice to know
> the proper way. Many people, don't get it. Don't believe it because I said
> it, yet believe it because you see it for yourself.

O.K. I didn't know there were too many ways to "mulch wrong" but I
will trust you know what you are doing.


>
> Anyway, you can use branches as mulch. That is a very good question. I am
> glad you asked that question. What I am trying to say is that mulch comes
> in different gradations. From composted leaves to tree trunks. I. e., if
> you go to where trees received their genetic codes or shall I say
> requirements (in a group). You can find some benefits of larger mulch here:
> http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/SOUND/soundscience/in dex.html

You lost me with the "Genetic Code" part, compost means "mixture" and
that's precisely what it entails, a mixture of decaying items which
release their nutrients as a natural fertilizer as well as trapping
much needed moisture and helping to prevent the growth of weeds.


>
> You could make a brush pile for small wildlife and such or you could give
> the wood from the branches soil contact. You could cut them in 4' pieces.
> In areas of fire concern, by giving the wood soil contact, you can reduce
> fire risk. There must be more than just fear of fire in the decision making
> processes of the management of trees and their associates..

That would be very time consuming, especialy if you don't have any
machinery. You also wouldn't want a brush pile near your home, so as
not to attrackt mice, snakes and who knows what else. So if you decide
on this, just make sure to keep it a good distance from the home.


>
> If you chipped the branches, I would suggest composting the wood chips for a
> year first. Unless the wood is symplastless, which then the wood chips
> would be fine at the time of chipping. Also by aging, you reduce the
> chances of artillery fungus. Fresh chips can attract undesirables which can
> and do do nasty things above as well as below ground. Mulch should be
> approximately 4" thick and flat. Keep the mulch back from the trunk flair
> about 6" if you can. BTW, when we chip a branch with a symplast, we cut the
> parenchyma cells thus smearing protoplasm all over the place. That is what
> attracts the undesirables that attack the defenseless cell contents. You do
> not have that situation when you use the 4' lengths of branches.
>
> Not the last word on the topic.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> John A. Keslick, Jr.
> Beware of so-called TREE EXPERTS who do not understand TREE BIOLOGY!
> www.treedictionary.com
>
> http://mercury.ccil.org/~treeman/
> Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
> that we are not the boss.
> Some people will buy products they do not understand and not buy books that
> will give them understanding.
> "Lucky" <LuckyHoodoo [at] aol.com> wrote in message
> news:1149272441.515570.187200 [at] j55g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> >
> > John A. Keslick, Jr. wrote:
> > > Mark
> > >
> > > http://mercury.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html
> > >
> > > Sincerely,
> > >
> > > John A. Keslick, Jr.
> > > Beware of so-called TREE EXPERTS who do not understand TREE BIOLOGY!
> > > www.treedictionary.com
> >
> > He wants to use tree branches and leaves as mulch, not to learn how to
> > mulch trees.
> >
> > -Jason
> >

There is not too many ways to mulch wrong. Yet many people do mulch wrong.

Not Fresh Chips
Not touching the trunk. The flair at the base of the tree is a trunk flair
and not a root flair.
Mulch should be flat.
Mulch made up of all bark should be avoided.
People dig the grass out before mulching - wrong. The grass roots grow
deeper than the non-woody absorbing roots. So if you remove the turf you
remove the absorbing roots. Please don't call the feeder roots. They do
not feed or provide food for the tree. Trees actually make their own food.
Bag after bag of stuff called TREE FOOD. Those people have no understanding
of photosynthesis.


Sincerely,

John A. Keslick, Jr.
Beware of so-called TREE EXPERTS who do not understand TREE BIOLOGY!
www.treedictionary.com

http://mercury.ccil.org/~treeman/
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.
Some people will buy products they do not understand and not buy books that
will give them understanding.
"Lucky" <LuckyHoodoo [at] aol.com> wrote in message
news:1149379343.835104.31050 [at] y43g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
>
> John A. Keslick, Jr. wrote:
> > Jason
> >
> > If he is going to mulch trees with the product, it would be nice to
know
> > the proper way. Many people, don't get it. Don't believe it because I
said
> > it, yet believe it because you see it for yourself.
>
> O.K. I didn't know there were too many ways to "mulch wrong" but I
> will trust you know what you are doing.
>
>
> >
> > Anyway, you can use branches as mulch. That is a very good question. I
am
> > glad you asked that question. What I am trying to say is that mulch
comes
> > in different gradations. From composted leaves to tree trunks. I. e.,
if
> > you go to where trees received their genetic codes or shall I say
> > requirements (in a group). You can find some benefits of larger mulch
here:
> > http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/SOUND/soundscience/in dex.html
>
> You lost me with the "Genetic Code" part, compost means "mixture" and
> that's precisely what it entails, a mixture of decaying items which
> release their nutrients as a natural fertilizer as well as trapping
> much needed moisture and helping to prevent the growth of weeds.
>
>
> >
> > You could make a brush pile for small wildlife and such or you could
give
> > the wood from the branches soil contact. You could cut them in 4'
pieces.
> > In areas of fire concern, by giving the wood soil contact, you can
reduce
> > fire risk. There must be more than just fear of fire in the decision
making
> > processes of the management of trees and their associates..
>
> That would be very time consuming, especialy if you don't have any
> machinery. You also wouldn't want a brush pile near your home, so as
> not to attrackt mice, snakes and who knows what else. So if you decide
> on this, just make sure to keep it a good distance from the home.
>
>
> >
> > If you chipped the branches, I would suggest composting the wood chips
for a
> > year first. Unless the wood is symplastless, which then the wood chips
> > would be fine at the time of chipping. Also by aging, you reduce the
> > chances of artillery fungus. Fresh chips can attract undesirables which
can
> > and do do nasty things above as well as below ground. Mulch should be
> > approximately 4" thick and flat. Keep the mulch back from the trunk
flair
> > about 6" if you can. BTW, when we chip a branch with a symplast, we cut
the
> > parenchyma cells thus smearing protoplasm all over the place. That is
what
> > attracts the undesirables that attack the defenseless cell contents.
You do
> > not have that situation when you use the 4' lengths of branches.
> >
> > Not the last word on the topic.
> >
> > Sincerely,
> >
> > John A. Keslick, Jr.
> > Beware of so-called TREE EXPERTS who do not understand TREE BIOLOGY!
> > www.treedictionary.com
> >
> > http://mercury.ccil.org/~treeman/
> > Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep
reminding us
> > that we are not the boss.
> > Some people will buy products they do not understand and not buy books
that
> > will give them understanding.
> > "Lucky" <LuckyHoodoo [at] aol.com> wrote in message
> > news:1149272441.515570.187200 [at] j55g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> > >
> > > John A. Keslick, Jr. wrote:
> > > > Mark
> > > >
> > > > http://mercury.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html
> > > >
> > > > Sincerely,
> > > >
> > > > John A. Keslick, Jr.
> > > > Beware of so-called TREE EXPERTS who do not understand TREE BIOLOGY!
> > > > www.treedictionary.com
> > >
> > > He wants to use tree branches and leaves as mulch, not to learn how to
> > > mulch trees.
> > >
> > > -Jason
> > >
>