#1: Rose problems
Posted on 2005-07-30 05:01:22 by Melissa
We live in the Denver area.
I got some bare root rose bushes from Jackson Perkins about a
month ago, and planted them. Most are doing ok, but a couple have
this problem where the leaves are turning a dark brownish color
and then get crackly and die.
http://dim.com/~melissa/photos/Roses%20problems%207-29-05.JP G
I put them in 2' tall 2' wide planters made of old highway guard
rails and the planters get pretty hot, but I put in a drip water
system. I'm not sure if some of them just aren't getting enough
water or if this is a bug or disease.
I usually also put fine cedar mulch around them but haven't
gotten to it yet. I started doing some tonight. That usually
keeps out a lot of what eats them ( I also use coffee grounds )
and keeps the water in the soil more. I need to finish that over
the weekend.
Does anyone have any idea what this is?
--
Yours In Liberty, Melissa - Colorado, U.S.A.
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#2: Re: Rose problems
Posted on 2005-07-30 15:05:54 by Tim Tompkins
It sounds like they aren't getting enough water.
Containers frequently require watering daily during the hot weather of
summer.
Tim
"Melissa" <melissa@Colorado.xxx> wrote in message
news:Xns96A2D5E3658CFVoiceFreedomfreedomn@216.196.97.142...
> We live in the Denver area.
>
> I got some bare root rose bushes from Jackson Perkins about a
> month ago, and planted them. Most are doing ok, but a couple have
> this problem where the leaves are turning a dark brownish color
> and then get crackly and die.
>
> http://dim.com/~melissa/photos/Roses%20problems%207-29-05.JP G
>
> I put them in 2' tall 2' wide planters made of old highway guard
> rails and the planters get pretty hot, but I put in a drip water
> system. I'm not sure if some of them just aren't getting enough
> water or if this is a bug or disease.
>
> I usually also put fine cedar mulch around them but haven't
> gotten to it yet. I started doing some tonight. That usually
> keeps out a lot of what eats them ( I also use coffee grounds )
> and keeps the water in the soil more. I need to finish that over
> the weekend.
>
> Does anyone have any idea what this is?
>
>
>
> --
> Yours In Liberty, Melissa - Colorado, U.S.A.
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#3: Re: Rose problems
Posted on 2005-07-30 18:03:12 by Gail Futoran
"Melissa" <melissa@Colorado.xxx> wrote in message
news:Xns96A2D5E3658CFVoiceFreedomfreedomn@216.196.97.142...
> We live in the Denver area.
>
> I got some bare root rose bushes from Jackson Perkins about a
> month ago, and planted them. Most are doing ok, but a couple have
> this problem where the leaves are turning a dark brownish color
> and then get crackly and die.
>
> http://dim.com/~melissa/photos/Roses%20problems%207-29-05.JP G
>
> I put them in 2' tall 2' wide planters made of old highway guard
> rails and the planters get pretty hot, but I put in a drip water
> system. I'm not sure if some of them just aren't getting enough
> water or if this is a bug or disease.
>
> I usually also put fine cedar mulch around them but haven't
> gotten to it yet. I started doing some tonight. That usually
> keeps out a lot of what eats them ( I also use coffee grounds )
> and keeps the water in the soil more. I need to finish that over
> the weekend.
>
> Does anyone have any idea what this is?
>
>
>
> --
> Yours In Liberty, Melissa - Colorado, U.S.A.
As Tim said, they probably aren't getting enough
water. Newly planted roses, especially bare roots,
need time to establish a good root system so it's
a good idea to baby them and especially when it's
really hot, water them frequently.
Is there good drainage in the pots? Roses can
also die from overwatering if water can't
drain out, but based on the browning I agree with
Tim it's probably too little water.
How much sun are they getting? Again, newly
planted roses can be tender and in the high
heat of the summer, too much sun can stress
them out, on top of the stress from being
planted. I've been known to erect temporary
shade for newly planted roses to give them
some relief from afternoon sun.
You shouldn't fertilize newly planted roses
which is another stressor. I have used potting
soil containing slow release fertilizers and had
no problems, but any additional fertilizer should
wait until the shrubs are well established.
A good organic root stimulator and general
tonic is seaweed. It's usually diluted 1 tbl.
per gallon water.
Gail
near San Antonio TX Zone 8
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#4: Re: Rose problems
Posted on 2005-07-30 19:05:58 by dave weil
On Fri, 29 Jul 2005 22:01:22 -0500, Melissa <melissa@Colorado.xxx>
wrote:
>We live in the Denver area.
>
>I got some bare root rose bushes from Jackson Perkins about a
>month ago, and planted them. Most are doing ok, but a couple have
>this problem where the leaves are turning a dark brownish color
>and then get crackly and die.
>
> http://dim.com/~melissa/photos/Roses%20problems%207-29-05.JP G
>
>I put them in 2' tall 2' wide planters made of old highway guard
>rails and the planters get pretty hot, but I put in a drip water
>system. I'm not sure if some of them just aren't getting enough
>water or if this is a bug or disease.
>
>I usually also put fine cedar mulch around them but haven't
>gotten to it yet. I started doing some tonight. That usually
>keeps out a lot of what eats them ( I also use coffee grounds )
>and keeps the water in the soil more. I need to finish that over
>the weekend.
>
>Does anyone have any idea what this is?
A couple of comments.
First of all, you need to prune awayyour blooms. Right now, the rose
is struggling to get established, especially since you planted them
right in the middle of summer. By pruning the blooms, you'll transfer
energy that the plant is expending trying to support them to the root
system. The main thing is to create a good basis for the future of the
plant. The first year or two is key to the establisment of a healthy
rose bush and that key is a strong root system.
Since you've only got a month or so left of serious growing season,
give up the idea of extensive blooms. Your plant will thank you in a
year or two with a profusion of blooms. I'm not saying that you can't
have a bloom or two, but remember that you're in this for the long
haul and you got started waaaay too late this year.
Also, since you're in Denver, I'd STRONGLY suggest that you get the
bud union under ground. The bud union is that mass of woody stuff that
the stems are coming from. Here in the South, we can get away with
having the bud union above ground, in fact, we sometimes choose to
have it prety close to being above ground level because of the heat
and dampness that can enocurage fungal infection. But you don't have
to worry so much about that. I'd cover that bud union with mulch,
which shouldn't hurt it now and will protect it when your temps get
low. I know that Denver isn't as "arctic" as some people think it is,
however, you have some goood snows and lots of prolonged stretches of
below freezing temps in the winter, so you'll need to protect your bud
union. If it gets hit with ice and snow, you can kiss it goodbye. I
think that all you need to do is put enough mulch to cover it with an
inch of material. Also, that dead stem on the left needs to go. Get a
good sharp offset pruner and lop it off about 1/4 inch from the bud
union.
Also, you have canker starting. On those canes that show a blackening
of the stem, make sure that you prune them back at least a couple of
inches. Prune above an active or inactive bud. If you don't know what
to look for, look for a healthy cane growing out of the cane, *or* a
swelling of the cane. Make sure you cut at an angle and not straight
across. Cut about 1/4 inch above such a bud or stem. The stem in the
middle that's growing at about 45 degrees might not be able to be
saved. However, you might try cutting it below that stem that's coming
out on the right. I don't think you've got enough cane to save that
branch, so let it go.
Good luck to you. Stop fertilizing it now and when winter comes, you
might want to give it 3 or 4 inches more of mulch. You can mound it up
a bit. This will protect it from cold wind, ice and snow. Just leave
the pruned canes exposed. They won't mind so much. Don't leave more
than a foot of cane though. In fact, I'd almost recommend pruning them
back to about 8 inches.
Hope this helps...
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#5: Re: Rose problems
Posted on 2005-07-31 00:19:57 by Melissa
"Tim Tompkins" <timpkins@frii.com> wrote :
> It sounds like they aren't getting enough water.
>
> Containers frequently require watering daily during the hot
> weather of summer.
I think you're right. Those planters heat up quite a bit. I
didn't have enough drip heads and was only running the drip
station for 17 mins a day. ( The heads are 1/2 gal per hour. ) I
went out and soaked them all good today, after adding fine cedar
mulch. I'm increasing the drip timer to 1 hour a day.
--
Yours In Liberty, Melissa - Colorado, U.S.A.
http://melissasliberty.blogspot.com/
DOESN'T EVERYONE DESERVE A BILL OF RIGHTS?
The last best hope for a liberty.
A subscriber Bill of Individual Rights with the goal of enlisting
the support of hundreds of millions of people all over the world.
http://upalliance.blogspot.com/
http://upalliance.org/
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Universal-Planetary-Alliance/
http://lakewoodcolorado.net/school.htm
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#6: Re: Rose problems
Posted on 2005-07-31 01:56:55 by Tim Tompkins
As previous posters mentioned, bare root plants take a bit more to get
started.
They are tender, due to being in cold storage prior to shipping and they
have very little in the way of a root system.
Feeding with a MILD food is appropriate as well as removing any buds. The
plant needs to put energy into establishing a root system.
In Colorado, I'm in Loveland, you MUST plant with the graft/bud union below
soil level to have a chance of surviving the winter. Even with this a
container doesn't offer much protection from prolonged low temperatures.
You can't prevent freezing, the soil simply offers a insulation barrier to
slow the rate of temperature change so the plant can acclimate, more is
better.
BTW, the Denver Rose Society annual rose show is Sunday August 7th at the
Denver Botanical Garden Center, open to the public at 12:30pm.
Tim
"Melissa" <melissa@Colorado.xxx> wrote in message
news:Xns96A3A62DF39D1VoiceFreedomfreedomn@216.196.97.142...
> "Tim Tompkins" <timpkins@frii.com> wrote :
>
> > It sounds like they aren't getting enough water.
> >
> > Containers frequently require watering daily during the hot
> > weather of summer.
>
> I think you're right. Those planters heat up quite a bit. I
> didn't have enough drip heads and was only running the drip
> station for 17 mins a day. ( The heads are 1/2 gal per hour. ) I
> went out and soaked them all good today, after adding fine cedar
> mulch. I'm increasing the drip timer to 1 hour a day.
>
>
> --
> Yours In Liberty, Melissa - Colorado, U.S.A.
> http://melissasliberty.blogspot.com/
>
> DOESN'T EVERYONE DESERVE A BILL OF RIGHTS?
> The last best hope for a liberty.
> A subscriber Bill of Individual Rights with the goal of enlisting
> the support of hundreds of millions of people all over the world.
> http://upalliance.blogspot.com/
> http://upalliance.org/
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Universal-Planetary-Alliance/
>
> http://lakewoodcolorado.net/school.htm
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#7: Re: Rose problems
Posted on 2005-07-31 03:36:40 by Melissa
"Tim Tompkins" <timpkins@frii.com> wrote :
> As previous posters mentioned, bare root plants take a bit
> more to get started.
>
> They are tender, due to being in cold storage prior to
> shipping and they have very little in the way of a root
> system.
>
> Feeding with a MILD food is appropriate as well as removing
> any buds. The plant needs to put energy into establishing a
> root system.
Ok.
> In Colorado, I'm in Loveland, you MUST plant with the
> graft/bud union below soil level to have a chance of surviving
> the winter.
Actually I've found that I have to plant with the crown above
soil, otherwise they don't do well, then I mound them high with
cedar mulch in the fall to protect the crowns.
> BTW, the Denver Rose Society annual rose show is Sunday August
> 7th at the Denver Botanical Garden Center, open to the public
> at 12:30pm. Tim
Is it indoors or out? My friend is on drugs where she can't be in
full sun.
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#8: Re: Rose problems
Posted on 2005-07-31 14:57:43 by Tim Tompkins
Inside the main building in Mitchell Hall.
If you are not a member of DBG there is an entry fee at the main gate, the
rose show is free.
Tim
"Melissa" <melissa@Colorado.xxx> wrote in message
news:Xns96A3C787D1DD9VoiceFreedomfreedomn@216.196.97.142...
> "Tim Tompkins" <timpkins@frii.com> wrote :
>
> > As previous posters mentioned, bare root plants take a bit
> > more to get started.
> >
> > They are tender, due to being in cold storage prior to
> > shipping and they have very little in the way of a root
> > system.
> >
> > Feeding with a MILD food is appropriate as well as removing
> > any buds. The plant needs to put energy into establishing a
> > root system.
>
> Ok.
>
> > In Colorado, I'm in Loveland, you MUST plant with the
> > graft/bud union below soil level to have a chance of surviving
> > the winter.
>
> Actually I've found that I have to plant with the crown above
> soil, otherwise they don't do well, then I mound them high with
> cedar mulch in the fall to protect the crowns.
>
> > BTW, the Denver Rose Society annual rose show is Sunday August
> > 7th at the Denver Botanical Garden Center, open to the public
> > at 12:30pm. Tim
>
> Is it indoors or out? My friend is on drugs where she can't be in
> full sun.
>
>
>
>
>
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